Salve Venetia, gleanings from Venetian history; vol. IICrawford, F. Marion (Francis Marion)
History
Salve Venetia, gleanings from Venetian history; vol. II
Crawford, F. Marion (Francis Marion)
Venice (Italy) -- History
TRIESTE, July thirtieth, 1806.--In Venice there had just been
published a new translation of the _Génie du Christianisme_. This
Venice, unless I am mistaken, would please you as little as it
pleases me. It is a city against nature; one cannot take a step
without being obliged to get into a boat, or else one is driven to
go round by narrow passages more like corridors than streets! The
Square of St. Mark alone is by its general effect worthy of its
reputation. The architecture of Venice, which is almost altogether
Palladio’s, is too capricious and too varied; it is as if two or
three palaces were built one upon the other. And the famous
gondolas, all black, look like boats that carry coffins; I took the
first one I saw for a corpse on the way to burial. The sky is not
our sky beyond the Apennines. Rome and Naples, my dear friend, and
a bit of Florence, there you have all Italy. There is, however, one
remarkable thing in Venice, and that is the number of convents
built on the islands and reefs round the city, just as other
maritime cities are surrounded with forts which defend them; the
effect of these religious monuments seen at night over a calm sea
is picturesque and touching. There are a few pictures left by Paolo
Veronese, Titian....
Giustina was filled with indignation on reading these lines, which were
signed by an author whose sentimentalism had found an echo in her heart.
A lady who admired Foscolo’s _Jacopo Ortis_ would naturally be pleased
with the _Génie du Christianisme_. The attack on her beloved native city
seemed all the more unkind for that, and she hastened to reply in a long
letter written in French, which she published in Pisa in the _Giornale
dei Letterati_. She answered Chateaubriand categorically, concluding
with the following words:--
I know that you have promised to return here; come then, but come
in a mood less sad, in a spirit less weary, with feelings less
cold.... I do not flatter myself that you will exclaim with that
Neapolitan poet that Venice was built by the gods, but I hope at
least that you will find here something more interesting than the
convents on the islands and the translation of your works.
Giustina had been in her grave eighteen years when Chateaubriand
returned to Venice, with a spirit indeed less weary, and allowed
himself to grow enthusiastic, and wrote a beautiful description of the
city in his _Mémoires d’Outre Tombe_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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