Salve Venetia, gleanings from Venetian history; vol. IICrawford, F. Marion (Francis Marion)
History
Salve Venetia, gleanings from Venetian history; vol. II
Crawford, F. Marion (Francis Marion)
Venice (Italy) -- History
In those times, more or less as now, women made lace at home, and
brought the results of their long and patient labour to the dealers, who
bought and sold it at a fabulous profit. A few specimens of the finest
lace of the sixteenth century are still in existence, and are worn on
great occasions by Italian ladies whose ancestresses wore them more than
three hundred years ago; but the art of making such lace is extinct.
Glance only, for instance, at a picture by Carpaccio, in the Museo
Civico of Venice, representing two patrician ladies of the fifteenth
century, one of whom wears white lace on her gown. It is of the kind
known as ‘point coupé’ or cut point, and is the same which Francesco
Vinciolo taught the French a hundred years later when it was no longer
thought fine enough, in Venice, for ornamenting anything but sheets and
pillow-cases. It is inimitable now. Or look at the exquisite lace of
network stitch with which Gentile Bellini loved to adorn the women he
portrayed. Yet in the sixteenth century still further progress had been
made, and the ‘air point’ was created, which surpassed in fineness
anything imagined before then, and for which fabulous prices were paid.
The collar of Louis XIV. was of this point, and it is said that as no
thread could be spun fine enough for it, white human hair was used.
There is also a story to the effect that the Emperor Joseph II., who
ascended the throne in 1765, ordered a set of air point worth the
improbable, though not very great price of 77,777 francs. As neither
Austrians nor Venetians used the franc, the story is most likely of
French origin.
Another lace greatly valued in Venice was the ‘rose point,’ which is
probably the best known of the ancient laces. It was preferred, for
collars, both by high officials and great ladies, and the Dogesses often
used it for their veils. The Doge Francesco Morosini possessed some
wonderful specimens of it, which I am told are still in the possession
of his descendants.
One more stitch was invented in the sixteenth century, which oddly
enough obtained the generic name of ‘Venetian point.’ There is a pretty
story about it. A sailor, says the legend, came home from a long voyage
and brought his sweetheart a kind of seaweed known to botanists by the
name of _Halimedia Opuntia_, of which the little branches were so fine
that the people called the plant ‘Siren’s hair.’ The man sailed again on
another voyage, and the girl, full of loving and anxious thoughts for
him, occupied herself by copying the dried plant with her needle, and in
so doing created the Venetian point.
The minister Colbert introduced it into France a century later, under
Louis XIV., and gave it his own name; and the King and the Republic
quietly quarrelled about this French infringement of a Venetian
monopoly. In the end, the Inquisitors of State issued a decree which was
intended to recall errant and erring Venetian lace-workers and
glass-blowers to the security of their homes:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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