The sun was so low now that we had either sunrise or sunset during the
whole time it was above the horizon. At noon it was not more than four
degrees high. We were gradually moving southward, or we would have been
left with nothing but this light during the daytime. In fact, several
days before we left Back's River, the sun only showed his diameter
above the hills along the shore, where it lazily rolled for a few
minutes and left us the long twilight in which to build our igloos,
which were scarely ever finished before the utter darkness came upon
us. Short days, together with our heavy sleds, and dogs not more than
half fed, kept us back most provokingly. The snow on the land was soft,
not having got thoroughly packed as yet, while the intense cold covered
its surface with minute particles of ice that impeded the sled like so
much sand. In many places the river and lakes were entirely denuded of
snow, and the bare ice would take the ice from our runners as if we
were moving over rocks. As long as the river ice was bare this made no
difference; the sled would slip along merrily, the dogs on a run, but
this seldom lasted for more than half a mile, when we would again run
upon snow and have all the more laborious drag as a consequence. Our
usual marches at this time were from five to ten miles, instead of from
ten to twenty, as on our way north.
The most unpleasant feature of winter travelling is the waiting for an
igloo to be built. To those at work even this time can be made to pass
pleasantly, and there is plenty that even the white men of a party can
do that would keep them busy, and consequently comfortable. When
travelling overland the halt is made, if possible, on some lake where a
water hole may be dug. This, through average ice--that is, about six or
seven feet--will take about an hour and a half, though an expert native
will do it in perhaps half that time. It is a blessing to get water at
this time, and a great shout goes up from the well-digger, as the
delicious fluid comes bubbling up through the narrow well, that is
echoed by the igloo builders and spreads throughout the camp. Then the
women repair with tin dippers and cups cut from musk-ox horn, and after
refreshing themselves carry a drink to their husbands. One can drink
enormously at this time, especially after working; but it will be well
to keep up pretty violent exercise for some time afterward, as filling
the stomach with such a quantity of ice-cold water will soon produce a
shiver.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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