Our ten-mile march through Erebus Bay occupied fifteen hours, and we
were all pretty well worn out when we reached the shore and encamped,
still some distance below Franklin Point. We lay over the next day, for
Toolooah, who had exerted himself even beyond his great powers of
endurance, was still quite exhausted, and though he expressed his
readiness to resume the journey, Lieutenant Schwatka did not think it
sufficiently urgent to run the risk of breaking him down altogether;
not only out of personal regard for the noble fellow, but, as he was
our sole dependence, losing his services would have been a sad if not a
fatal disaster to the entire party. During the day I shot two of an
apparently distinct species of snipe, to preserve their skins for the
Smithsonian Institute collection. One of them was distinguished by a
sweet, simple song, somewhat similar to the lark's, its silvery tones
gushing forth as if in perfect ecstasy of enjoyment of sunshine and
air; at the same time rising and poising itself upon its wings. It
seemed almost inhuman to kill the sweet little songster, particularly
as it was the only creature I saw in the Arctic that uttered a pleasant
note. All other sounds were such as the scream of the hawk and the
gull, the quack of the duck, the yell of the wolf, the "Ooff! ooff!" of
the walrus, or the bark of the seal--all harsh and unmelodious, save
the tones of this sweet little singer. Nothing but starvation or
scientific research could justify the slaughter of one of these
innocents. I believe I shut my eyes when I pulled the trigger of my
gun, and I know my heart gave a regretful thump when I heard the thud
of its poor, bleeding body upon the ground. When we started for
Franklin Point the next day, Lieutenant Schwatka concluded to follow
Toolooah's advice, and keep upon the smooth ice near the shore, even
though it should increase the distance marched. Our experience of the
hummocks of Victoria Strait was not one that we were anxious to repeat.
We had a short stretch of similar work in crossing the mouth of an
inlet just below Franklin Point, and we were glad enough when we got
through. The thermometer registered thirty-seven degrees in the shade,
and sixty degrees in the sun. There was scarcely any wind, and coats
were a burden of which we had soon to relieve ourselves. The heat while
walking was quite as exhausting as ninety-eight degrees in the shade at
New York. We saw a number of seals on the ice opposite the mouth of the
inlet, and Toolooah shot one which was an unusually big specimen. In
fact, the average of those we saw in this part of the country is much
larger than those at Hudson's Bay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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