Ramsgate, a much more attractive and enjoyable centre, rich in
excursions to points of genuine interest, dates somewhat later. It
first came into note about the beginning of the eighteenth century,
when it did a modest trade with the Levant and the Black Sea, or, as
contemporary English more prettily phrases it, 'with Russia and the
east country.' In 1750 the first pier was built, as a national work,
mainly to serve as a harbour of refuge for ships caught in gales off
the Downs. The engineer was Smeaton, and he succeeded in creating an
artificial harbour of great extent, which has lasted substantially up
to the present time. This new port, rendered safer by the enlargement
in 1788, made Ramsgate at once into an important seafaring town, the
capital of the Kentish herring trade, alive with smacks in the busy
season. The steamers did it less good at first than they did to
Margate; but the completion of the two railways, and the building of
the handsome extensions on the east and west cliffs, turned it at once
into a frequented watering-place. It is the fashion nowadays rather to
laugh at Ramsgate. Marine painters know better. Few harbours are
livelier with red and brown sails; few coasts more enjoyable than the
cliff walk looking across towards the Goodwins, the low shore by
Sandwich, the higher ground about Deal and Dover, and the dim white
line of Cape Blancnez in the distance.
Broadstairs, close by the lighthouse on the North Foreland (the Cantium
Promontorium of Roman geography), is still newer as a place of public
resort. But as a fishing village it dates back to the middle ages, when
the little chapel of "Our Lady of Bradstow" stood in the gap of the
cliffs, and was much addressed by anxious sailors rounding the
dangerous point after the silting up of the Wantsum. Ships as they
passed lowered their top-sails to do it reverence. Under Henry VIII. a
small wooden pier was thrown out to protect the fishing boats; and
about the same time, as part of the general scheme of coast defence
inaugurated by the king, a gate and portcullis were erected to close
the gap seaward, in case of invasion. The archway and portcullis groove
remain to this day, with an inscription recording their repair in 1795
by Sir John Henniker. The railway has turned Broadstairs into a minor
rival of Ramsgate and Margate and 'a favourite resort for gentry,'
where 'those who require quietness, either from ill health or a
retiring disposition,' says a local guide-book, may enjoy 'the united
advantages of tranquillity and seclusion.' Hundreds of retiring souls
indeed may be observed on the beach any day during the season, seeking
tranquillity in a game of cards, repairing their health with the
stimulus of donkey exercise, or soothing their souls in secret hour
with music sweet as love, discoursed to them by gentlemen in loose pink
suits and artificially imitated AEthiopian countenances.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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