Science in Short ChaptersWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
Science in Short Chapters
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
Further investigations have since been made which confirm this theory.
The first action of the wind in blowing up what the sailors call “a
sea,” is the production of a ripple on the surface of the water. This
ripple gives the wind a strong hold, and thus larger waves are formed,
but on these larger there are smaller waves, and on these smaller waves
still smaller ripples. All this roughness of surface goes on helping
the wind, till at last the mightiest billows are formed, which then
have an oscillation independent of the wind that formed them. Hence
the oil cannot at once subdue the great waves that are already formed,
but may prevent their formation if applied in time. Even the great
waves are moderated by the oil stopping the action of the wind which
sustains and augments them.
Quite recently, Captain David Gray made some experiments at the north
bar of Peterhead, where a very heavy surf breaks over in rough weather.
On a rough day he dropped a bottle full of oil into the sea. The oil
floating out of the bottle, converted the choppy waves over a large
area “into an expanse of long undulating rollers, smooth and glassy,
and so robbed of all violence that a small open boat could ride on them
in safety.”
This result is quite in accordance with what we are told respecting the
ancient practice of the fishermen of Lisbon, who were accustomed to
empty a bottle of oil into the sea when they found on their return to
the river that there was a dangerous surf on the bar, which might fill
their boats in crossing it.
As regards Peterhead, it is proposed to lay perforated pipes across
the mouth of the harbor, and to erect tanks from which these pipes
may be supplied with oil, and thus pour a continuous and widely
distributed stream into the sea in bad weather. The scheme was mooted
some time ago, but I am not aware whether it has yet been carried out.
Its success or failure must mainly be determined by the cost, and
this will largely depend upon the kind of oil that is used. A series
of well-conducted experiments upon the comparative areas protected
by different kinds of oil would be very interesting and practically
useful, for, until this has been ascertained, a proper selection cannot
be made. How long will it last? is another question.
I have frequently seen such tracks as Franklin observed out at sea, and
have climbed to the masthead in order to sight the ship that produced
them, without seeing any. Several of such smooth shining tracks have
been observed at the same time, but no ship visible, and this in places
where no sail has been seen for days before or after. The poet’s
description of “the trackless ocean” is by no means “founded on fact.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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