Scientific American Supplement, No. 358, November 11, 1882Various
Science
Scientific American Supplement, No. 358, November 11, 1882
Various
Science -- Periodicals
For priming I use 100 pounds white lead (in oil), 10 pounds dry red
lead, 13 pounds Prince's metallic, 8 quarts boiled oil, 2 quarts
varnish, 6 quarts turpentine, and grind in the mill, as it mixes it
thoroughly with less waste. I mix about 250 pounds at a time (put into
kegs and draw off as wanted through faucets).
This _o-le-ag-in-ous_ compound can be worked both ways, quickly by
adding japan, slower by adding oil, and reduce to working consistency
with turpentine.
Without the oil or japan it will dry hard on wrought iron in about seven
days, on castings in about four days. When dry putty with white-lead
putty, thinned with varnish and turpentine, and knifed in with a
"broad-gauge" putty knife. Next day sandpaper and apply first coat
rough-stuff, which is, equal parts, in bulk, white lead and "Reno's
umber," mixed "stiff" with equal parts japan and rubbing varnish, and
thin with turpentine. Next morning, second coat rough-stuff, made with
Reno's umber, fine pumice stone, japan, and turpentine. At 1 o'clock
P.M. put on guide coat for the benefit of the small boys, which is
rough-stuff No. 2, darkened with lamp-black and very thin. The addition
of fine pumice to rough-stuff No. 2 encourages the boys in rubbing, and
prevents the blockstone from clogging.
By the time the last end of the tank is painted the first end is ready
for rubbing, though it is better to stand until next day.
After rubbing sandpaper and put on very thin coat of varnish and
turpentine (about equal parts). This soaks into the filling, hardening
it and making a close, smooth, elastic surface, leaving no brush marks
and being more durable than a _quick_-drying lead. This can be rubbed
with fine sandpaper or hair to take off gloss, and colored the next
morning, but it is better to remain 24 hours before coloring.
Upon this surface an "all japan color" would, before night, resemble a
map of the war in Egypt, but by adding varnish and a very little raw oil
to the "japan color," making it of the same nature as the under surface,
will prevent cracking.
If I sandpaper in the morning, I put on first-coat color before noon.
Second ditto afternoon, and varnish with rubbing varnish that night; rub
down, stripe and letter next day, though I consider it better to stripe
and letter on the color, and varnish with "wearing body varnish."
The tank is then ready for mounting. When mounted I paint trucks and
woodwork, two coats lead, color, "color and varnish," and finish the
whole with "wearing body varnish." Time, from 14 to 16 days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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