Scientific American Supplement, No. 358, November 11, 1882Various
Science
Scientific American Supplement, No. 358, November 11, 1882
Various
Science -- Periodicals
The above are not exactly "Thoughts on Locomotive Painting." What my
thoughts are would require several dictionaries to express; but that is
owing, not to the kind of work, but having to produce certain results in
a time that will not insure good, durable work.
For removing old paint on wood I use a burner. From iron, I have found
the quickest and most effectual way is to dissolve as much sal soda in
warm water as the water will take up, and mix with fresh lime, making
a thick mortar; spread this on the tank, about an inch thick, with a
trowel; when it begins to crack, which will be in a few minutes, it has
softened the paint enough, so that with a wide putty knife you can take
it all off; then wash off tank with water. This takes off paint, rust,
and everything, including the skin from your hands, if you are not
careful. Plaster one side of tank, and use mortar over again for the
other side.
Engine oil used to brighten smoke stacks, no matter with what painted,
will cause blistering. Tallow and "japan drop black" mixed, and apply
while stack is hot, with an occasional rubbing over with the same, will
remain bright a long time.
Rust always contains dampness, and will feed on itself, extending
underneath and destroying solidly painted surfaces. It is, therefore,
necessary, in order to secure good results, that the rust should be
killed before priming, or that the priming be so mixed that it will
assimilate with the rust and prevent spreading.
Steel tanks will not rust as rapidly as iron, but the scale is more apt
to flake off by the expansion and contraction of the metal, taking the
paint with it.
Heated oil, or heated oil priming, will dry faster and be more
penetrating than cold. I consider heated "boiled oil" and red lead the
best primer for iron.
In regard to ornamentation, my _taste_ is governed by the fact that I
work "by contract," and get no more for a highly ornate locomotive than
I do for a plain one, therefore I like the _plain ones best_, and I
hope that our "good brother Burch's" prophecy, that "the days of 'fancy
locomotives' will return," will never be fulfilled until after I go out
of the business. There is a happy medium between a hearse and a
circus wagon, and the locomotive painter, when not tied down by
"specifications," can produce a neat and handsomely painted engine
without the "spread eagle" or "star spangled banner." My own ideas are
in the direction of simple lines of striping, following the lines of the
surfaces upon which they are drawn.
Finally, take all the time you can get, the more the better, and use
_oil_ accordingly.
* * * * *
"CRACKLE" GLASS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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