Fifty years ago Highland ferries were much more used than at the
present day, when railways and steamers have so greatly reduced the
number of stage-coaches and post-horses. These little pieces of
navigation across rivers, estuaries, and sea-lochs, afforded ample
scope for certain Celtic idiosyncrasies. The ferryman could, as
occasion served, contract his knowledge of English, and on one pretext
or another contrive to exact more than the legal or reasonable fare,
remaining imperturbably insensible to the complaints and remonstrances
of the passengers. An illustrative story is told by Dr. Norman Macleod
in his charming _Reminiscences of a Highland Parish_. A Highland
friend of his who had been so long absent in India that he had lost
the accent, but not the language of his native region, had reached
one of these ferries on his way home, and asked one of the boatmen in
English what the charge was. The question being repeated in Gaelic by
the man to his elder comrade, the answer came back at once in the same
language, ‘Ask the Sassenach ten shillings.’ ‘He says,’ explained the
interpreter to the supposed Englishmen, ‘he is sorry he cannot do it
under twenty shillings, and that’s cheap.’ No reply was made to this
extortion at the moment, but as the boat sailed across, the gentleman
spoke to the men in good Gaelic. Whereupon, instead of taking shame to
himself for his attempted cheat, the spokesman turned the tables on
the traveller: ‘I am ashamed of you,’ he said, ‘I am, indeed, for I
see you are ashamed of your country; och, och, to pretend to me that
you were an Englishman! You deserve to pay _forty_ shillings--but the
ferry, is only five!’
[Sidenote: HIGHLAND FERRYMEN]
On another occasion, when a sea-loch had to be crossed where strong
currents swung the ferry-boat round and some manoeuvring with the oars
was required, the chief ferryman kept saying, ‘Furich, Donald,’ to the
one assistant, and ‘Furich, Angus,’ to the other. At the other side of
the loch the passenger paid the fare and then said to the ferryman,
‘Now, I’ll give you another shilling if you will tell me what you mean
by “Furich, furich,” which I have heard you say so often in the passage
across. It must surely have many different meanings.’ The coin was duly
pocketed and the Highlander thus deliberately explained: ‘Ah, it’s
ta English of ta Gaelic “furich” ’at you wass wantin’ to know. Well,
I’ll tell you; it’s meanin’ “Wait,” “Stop”; och ay, it means “Howld
on,” “Niver do the day what you can by any possibeelity put off till
to-morrow.”’
I was once crossing in an open rowing boat from Skye to Raasay,
propelled by two men, a younger Highlander, who sat nearest to me,
and an elderly man on the bench beyond. The latter was dressed in a
kilt, and with his unkempt locks and rugged features, made a singularly
picturesque figure. My neighbour caught my eye now and then fixed on
his comrade, and at last he broke silence with a question:
‘You’re looking at Sandy, sir, I see?’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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