One of his favourite anchorages has been Loch Roag, on the west side of
Lewis, where the typical scenery of these islands is well displayed--a
hummocky surface of rounded rocky knolls, separated by innumerable
lakelets and boggy or peaty hollows, or green crofter-holdings, the
land projecting seawards in many little promontories, and the sea
sprinkled with islets. On one of the cruises, we landed and examined
with some care the famous stones of Callernish--the most numerous
group of standing stones in the British Islands. Seen from the sea on
a grey misty day, they look like a company of stoled carlines met in
council. On a near view, they are found to be disposed in the figure of
a cross and circle, the longer limb of the cross being directed about
ten degrees east of north. The monoliths consist of between 40 and 50
slabs of flaggy gneiss, the largest being 17 to 18 feet in height.
It was interesting to observe that after the purpose for which they
were erected had perhaps been forgotten, boggy vegetation began to
spread over the ground and form a layer of peat, which, in the course
of centuries, increased to a depth of six feet or more; the lower
portions of the upright monoliths were thus buried in the peat. The
late proprietor had this vegetable growth removed, so as to lay bare
the original surface of the ground; but the upper limit of the turbary
could still be traced in the bleached aspect of that lower part of the
stones which had been covered by the peat, the organic acids of the
decaying vegetation having removed much of the colouring material of
the gneiss. How long this accumulation of peat took to form must be
matter for conjecture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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