we cheerfully ordered the stipulated bottle for them.
[Sidenote: ORKNEY BOATMEN]
Subsequently on crossing over into the Orkney group, I had soon
occasion to note the difference between the boatmen there and those
with whom I was familiar in the west of Scotland. More adventurous and
skilful than their Celtic fellow-countrymen, they generally possess
larger and stronger boats, which they keep in better trim. Some of
their smaller boats are built with sharp sterns, and exactly resemble
the common type one sees in Norway. In the eighteenth century, as
Boswell mentions, the people in the Inner Hebrides sometimes obtained
their boats from Norway. The Orcadians, among other traces of their
Scandinavian descent, seem to take to the water as naturally as the
seals which they shoot. On several occasions my Orkney boatmen piloted
me along the base of cliffs and among rocks against which the heavy
Atlantic swell was breaking, where no Skye boatmen I ever met with
would have ventured. No one can fully realize the grandeur of the great
cliff of Hoy unless he can look up at it from below, as well as from
the crest above. Its warm tints of bright yellow and red make it seem
aglow with light even in dull weather, and from a distance it looks as
if it caught sunbeams which are falling on no other part of the scene.
Viewed from its upper edge, this cliff presents a wonderful picture of
decay. The horizontal beds of sandstone have been split by the weather
into long deep vertical chasms, and etched out into fantastic cusps
and cupolas, alcoves and recesses. From the edge of the precipice,
which rises a thousand feet above the sea, one looks down on the long
Atlantic rollers, seemingly diminished to mere ripples, and their
heavy breakers to streaks of foam, while the surge, though it thunders
against the rocks, ‘cannot be heard so high.’ The Old Man of Hoy, which
has been left standing as an isolated column in front of this great
cliff, is the grandest natural obelisk in the British Islands, for it
rises to a height of 450 feet above the waves that beat against its
base.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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