In the course of a cruise in the ‘Aster’ round the Shetland Islands I
enjoyed ample opportunities of becoming acquainted with the whole of
the wonderful coast-scenery of this archipelago. With a steam yacht it
is possible to keep close inshore, and to sail back and forward along
the more interesting parts. In this way I was enabled to see the great
cliffs of Foula well, and to watch the movements of its ‘bonxies’ or
Great Skuas. With the view of protecting these now rare and almost
exterminated birds, the proprietor of the island many years ago gave
strict orders to the natives not to molest them nor take their eggs,
and on no account to let any birds’-egg collectors come and help
themselves. He was on the steamer one day bound for Scotland, when
one of the passengers, entering into conversation with him, began to
talk of Foula, and to complain of the incivility of the people of the
island. The laird inquired in what way they had been discourteous to
him. ‘Well, you see,’ said the bird-man, ‘I am a dealer in birds’ eggs,
and I went to the island to obtain some eggs of the Great Skua. The
natives refused to get me any, and when they saw me preparing to go
and hunt for them myself they gathered round and threatened to pitch
me over the cliff into the sea.’ ‘And, by Jove,’ exclaimed the laird,
‘they would have done it too. They have my orders; I am the proprietor
of Foula.’
[Sidenote: IN THE SHETLAND ISLES]
As the yacht steamed round St. Magnus Bay and past the extraordinary
group of fantastic islets that rise out of its waters, we had the good
luck to see a white-tailed eagle winging its way northward, and pursued
by a flock of large gulls. This bird is now almost extinct along our
coasts. A few pairs are still left. One of these breeds near the top
of a cliff 500 feet high, in a group of islets which is a favourite
anchorage for the ‘Aster.’ Last year (1903), besides the two old birds,
a third was seen.
Rounding the far headland of Unst, the most northerly point of the
British Islands, we ran up a flag to salute the lighthouse on that
lonely spot. So seldom does any yacht pass there, and, judging from our
experience, so few vessels of any kind come within saluting distance of
the place, that the keeper, taken aback apparently at our courtesy, and
not wishing to delay his return of it, seized a pair of white trousers
that were drying on the parapet rail, and waved them enthusiastically,
while his comrade ran to hoist the flag.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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