So exactly do the Faroe Islands reproduce the scenery of the Inner
Hebrides that it is difficult at first to believe that we are not
somehow back again under the cliffs of Skye or Mull. Green declivities
descend from the interior of these islands to the edge of the cliffs,
which then plunge sheer down into the sea. The precipices are built up
of nearly level sheets of brown basalt, edged with narrow strips of
grassy herbage, cleft into chasms, and eaten out into tunnels and caves
by the restless surge. From the horizontal bars of the great cliffs,
the eye ranges upward to the brightly verdant slopes above, and marks
dark-brown ribs of rock running parallel with these bars in a series
of terraces away up to the crests of the ridges and hills. Only in
the little bays, which here and there indent the ranges of formidable
precipice, does one catch sight of evidence of human occupation.
But, while the topography is so similar, the population presents a
singular contrast to that of the Western Isles of Scotland. Everywhere
it gives proofs of energy, industry, comfort, cleanliness, and
civilisation. Each little community at the head of its cliff-girt
inlet has built a hamlet of neat wooden houses, which, with their
painted doors, trim windows, and clean white curtains, show that the
inhabitants are well-to-do, and not without some of the luxuries of
life. Fishing is the main industry, and all the inhabitants are more
or less engaged in it--men, women, and children. The men go to sea
and bring back the fish. The women look after it as it lies drying in
the sun, cover it with tarpaulin if rain comes, and stack it up ready
for export. There is usually a chief man or merchant who takes general
charge of the trade, and arranges for the steamboats to come and carry
off the piles of fish.
[Sidenote: FAROES AND WESTERN ISLES]
To return from such a scene to the west of Skye cannot but fill the
heart with sadness as one passes inlet after inlet, either with
no inhabitants or with only a handful of them, housed in squalid,
miserable, dirty huts, too poor to provide themselves with good
seagoing boats, too timid or too lazy and unenterprising to gather the
harvest of the sea, as the men do in Faroe, but content to live as
their fathers have done, save that now they have become possessed by
a greed for more land, which, when they get it, they will doubtless
cultivate in the same unskilful and slovenly fashion. In the herring
fishing, which is the chief industry among the Western Isles, the boats
come largely from the east side of Scotland, and are manned by the
stalwart and active seamen of the shores of the Moray Firth and other
parts of the coast.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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