The Talla valley is narrow and deep, the hills rising steeply from
1000 to 1400 feet above the flat alluvial haugh at the bottom, which
is about 900 feet above the sea. It must be sadly changed now, when it
has become the site of one of the great Edinburgh water-reservoirs.
But in the days of which I am speaking it was a lonely sequestered
glen, silent save for the bleat of the sheep or the bark of the dogs.
In wet weather the wind drove up or down the defile, separating the
rain into long vertical shafts, which chased each other like pale
spectres. In the narrower tributary gorge of the Gameshope, these
ghost-like forms are even more marked, hence they are known in the
district as the ‘White Men of Gameshope.’ Above Talla Linnfoot, the
ground rises steeply up into the heights around Loch Skene and the
weird hollows of the White Coomb. With my early school-fellow and
colleague in the Geological Survey, the late Professor John Young, of
Glasgow University, I have wandered into every recess and over every
summit of that fascinating ground. On one occasion we extended our
ramble to the Yarrow valley, with the intention of spending the night
under the hospitable roof of Tibbie Shiels, who was then in still
vigorous old age. Next morning we found the ground buried under some
six inches of snow, which still continued to fall. As a return over
the trackless hills was then impossible, we were shut up for several
days, during which we shared in various domestic employments, among the
rest in learning to churn butter. Tibbie encouraged us in our labours
by various recollections of Wilson, Hogg, and other personages of the
_Noctes Ambrosianae_.
[Sidenote: TIBBIE SHIELS]
When the storm ceased and the sun shone out again, the whole landscape
was white up to the crests of the hills, save St. Mary’s Loch and the
Loch of the Lowes, between which the little hostelry stands. These
waters were still unfrozen, and wore a look of inky blackness by
contrast with the surrounding ground. One unlooked-for effect of the
wintry covering was to reveal the surface features of the hills with a
clearness never before realised. These uplands in their ordinary guise
are so rich in colour, and the distribution of the varying tints has
so little relation to the forms of the ground, that most of the minor
details of the topography are lost to the eye. But now that colour was
wholly eliminated, every little dimple and ridge stood out marked by
its delicate violet shadows in the pure white snow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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