There is a small inn on one of the north-western sea-lochs, where
in the year 1860 I spent a night with my old chief, Sir Roderick
Murchison. It was in a shocking state of neglect and dirt, with little
more in the way of provisions than oat-cakes, potatoes, and whisky. It
boasted of only one bedroom, which had two beds that did not appear to
have been slept in for many a day. Twenty years later I came back to
the same inn, hoping that the general improvement would have reached
that place too, but I found that as nothing in the way of repair had
been done to it in the interval, it was more dilapidated and untidy
than ever. I had as a travelling companion a well-known man of science,
who, never having been up in that part of Scotland, was glad of the
opportunity of seeing it. We occupied the same double-bedded room as
I had formerly known. Awaking betimes in the morning, I lay for a
while contemplating the ceiling and the undulations and cracks in its
plaster. There was a large downward bulge, like a full-bellied sail,
right above my friend’s head. As I was looking at it, this piece of the
plaster suddenly gave way and fell in a mass upon him, with a shower
of dust all over the bed. Of course he started up in great alarm,
but fortunately he had received no serious injury. It was his first
experience of a Highland inn of the old type.
A distinct revival of the roadside inn can be traced to the wide spread
of bicycle-riding. Wheelmen appear to be ‘drouthy cronies,’ who are not
sorry to halt for a few minutes at an inviting change-house; but many
of them take up their quarters for a night at such places, and this
demand for sleeping-room has led to the resuscitation of little inns
that had almost gone to decay. It is to be hoped that this revival will
continue to spread, and that not only will the old inns come to life
again, but that new and better houses of entertainment will be erected
in parts of the country where the attractions are many, while the
accommodation is but scant.
[Sidenote: AN IRISH PUBLICAN IN SCOTLAND]
From inns one naturally turns to drink, which forms the theme of so
large a proportion of Scottish stories. It must be admitted that this
prominence is a sad indication of the extent to which for generations
past alcoholic liquors of all kinds have been consumed in the country.
I used to imagine that the ‘trade,’ that is, the calling of publican,
was in the hands of Scotsmen, who were themselves entirely to blame not
only for the drinking, but for the selling of whisky. On a visit to
Antrim, however, I learned that others besides natives of Scotland have
a share in the traffic. In driving out from Ballymena on an Irish car,
my talkative ‘jarvie’ noticed me looking at a new villa that was in
course of erection not far from the town.
‘That’ll be a foin place, sorr,’ said he. ‘That’s Mr. O’Donnel’s, sorr.’
‘Who is Mr. O’Donnel?’ I asked.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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