The memory of the visits of these early geological pioneers had faded
away when I came to Skye. It seemed that no geologist since their day
had been seen in Strath, so that the appearance of a lad wandering
about alone and, as it looked, aimlessly, with a hammer in his hand and
a bag over his shoulder, gave rise to much wonderment and conjecture
among the crofters. They knew me by the name of _Gille na Clach_,
or the ‘Lad of the Stones,’ and came in the end to see that I was
harmless. But now and then they would express their convictions or
their pity. Once, when passing some huts on the shore of Loch Slapin,
I stopped to break off a fragment from a projecting rock in front
of them. As usual, I looked at the chip with my lens, and, having
satisfied myself as to the nature of the rock, was resuming my walk,
when I heard two old crones at their doors speaking of me. I knew very
little Gaelic, but I caught up the emphatic remark that closed the
conversation--‘As a cheill.’ When I returned to Kilbride I asked the
tutor of the family the meaning of the expression, and learnt that it
was, ‘He’s wrong in the head.’
[Sidenote: LIFE ON PABBA]
One of my earliest excursions from Kilbride led me to the island of
Pabba, which lies like a flat green meadow in front of Broadford Bay.
Hugh Miller had described to me its richly fossiliferous Liassic
shales, and I went with the determination to spend some time on the
island, and make a good collection of its fossils. The only habitation
in the place was one small hut, tenanted by Charles Mackinnon and
his family, who looked after the cattle sent across from the farm of
Corrie. Coming with the recommendation of their master, I was cordially
welcomed. But the resources of the island were slender. My sleeping
quarters were a heap of heather in a corner of the upper floor of a
barn, while for my dining-room I had the use of the ‘ben’ or inner room
in Charles’ hut. The food consisted chiefly of potatoes, oat-cakes,
milk, and tea, with an occasional herring or an egg. After a day’s work
along the shore, I would spend the evening in the hut, labelling and
wrapping up my specimens, while Mackinnon, who knew a little English,
sat by the side of the peat fire, and gave me his company. We had been
engaged in this way for some time the first evening, when the door
opened, and his wife looked in. After watching me for a few moments
arranging my bits of stone, she made a remark in Gaelic which drew an
angry reproof from her ‘goodman,’ who ordered her to go away. With some
difficulty I drew from him the admission that the poor woman had only
said ‘if she wassna kennin’ ye had sense, she wad be thinking ye wass a
terrible eediot.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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