vegetables for feeding the cattle, but he could not be allowed to use
a wheelbarrow with which he could have done the whole work in a few
minutes. As it was a heinous offence to write letters on Sunday, people
used to sit up till midnight; what would have been a sin before the
clock struck twelve, became quite legitimate thereafter.[15]
Happily this rigidity is gradually being relaxed, except perhaps in
parts of the Highlands. How it looks to an observer from outside may be
illustrated from some of my own personal experiences.
[Sidenote: A ROSS-SHIRE SABBATH]
In the summer of the year 1860, I found that the strict maintenance
of the Highland view of Sabbath observance might have had serious
consequences for myself. In company with my old chief, Sir Roderick
Murchison, I had walked on a Saturday from the head of Loch Torridon,
through the wild defile of Glen Torridon, to Loch Maree. Along the
mountain slopes that sweep upwards from the southern side of that
valley, I noticed so many features of interest, some of which, if
further and more closely examined, might help to clear up problems of
Highland geology for the solution of which we were seeking, that I felt
I must ascend these mountains and look at their crests and corries. But
we were pressed for time, and although next day was Sunday I determined
to devote it to the quest. The morning broke auspiciously, and ushered
in one of the most superb days which I have ever been fortunate enough
to meet with in the West Highlands. As it was desirable to save time
and fatigue by driving some six miles to the point of the road nearest
to the ground to be traversed, a request was made for a dog-cart. But
the answer came, that it was the Sabbath, and nobody would drive a
‘machine’ on the Lord’s Day. There was no objection, however, to allow
the use of a dog-cart, nor to charge for the same in the bill (for
Highland innkeepers, like Dryden’s Shimei, ‘never break the Sabbath
but for gain’); we must, however, do the driving ourselves. It was
accordingly arranged that Sir Roderick’s valet should drive me to
the place and return with the vehicle, leaving me to make my tramp
and find my way back to the inn on foot. The fresh buoyant air of the
mountains; the depth of the glens with their piles of old moraines;
the ruggedness and dislocation of the cliffs and slopes; the utter
solitude of the scene, broken only now and then by the bound of a group
of red deer, startled from a favourite corrie, or by the whirr of the
snowy ptarmigan; the ever-widening panorama of mountain-summit, gorge,
glen, and lake, as each peak was gained in succession; and then from
the highest crest of all, the vista of the blue Atlantic, with the
faint far hills of the Outer Hebrides and the nearer and darker spires
of Skye--all this, added to the absorbing interest of the geology,
filled up a day to the brim with that deep pleasure of which the memory
becomes a life-long possession. The sun had sunk beneath the western
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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