Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
Mr. Hawkins’ party, led by Bennen, climbed the rocks abutting against
the Couloir du Lion on its south side, and attained the Col du Lion,
although not without difficulty. They then followed the south-west
ridge, passed the place at which the earliest explorers had turned back
(the Chimney), and ascended about three hundred feet more. Mr. Hawkins
and J. J. Carrel then stopped, but Bennen and Professor Tyndall mounted
a few feet higher. They retreated, however, in less than half an hour,
finding that there was too little time, and, descending to the col by
the same route as they had followed on the ascent, proceeded thence to
Breuil—down the couloir instead of by the rocks. The point at which Mr.
Hawkins stopped is easily identified from his description. Its height
is 12,992 feet above the sea. I think that Bennen and Tyndall could not
have ascended more than fifty or sixty feet beyond this in the few
minutes they were absent from the others, as they were upon one of the
most difficult parts of the mountain. This party therefore accomplished
an advance of about three hundred and fifty or four hundred feet.
Mr. Hawkins did not, as far as I know, make another attempt; and the
next was made by the Messrs. Parker in July, 1861. They again started
from Zermatt, followed the route they had struck out on the previous
year, and got a little higher than before; but they were defeated by
want of time, left Zermatt shortly afterward on account of bad weather,
and did not again renew their attempts. Mr. Parker says: “In neither
case did we go as high as we could. At the point where we turned we saw
our way for a few hundred feet farther, but beyond that the
difficulties seemed to increase.” I am informed that both attempts
should be considered as excursions undertaken with the view of
ascertaining whether there was any encouragement to make a more
deliberate attack on the north-east side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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