Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69Whymper, Edward
History
Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69
Whymper, Edward
Alps -- Description and travel; Mountaineering -- Alps -- History -- 19th century; Mountaineers -- Biography; Whymper, Edward, 1840-1911
[Illustration: THE COL DU LION, LOOKING TOWARD THE TÊTE DU LION]
But no harm could come from that side—neither could it from the other.
Nor was it likely that it would from the Tête du Lion, for some jutting
ledges conveniently overhung our proposed resting-place. We waited for
a while, basked in the sunshine, and watched or listened to the
Carrels, who were sometimes seen or heard high above us upon the ridge
leading toward the summit; and, leaving at mid-day, we descended to the
cow-shed, packed up the tent and other properties, and returned to the
col, although heavily laden, before six o’clock. This tent was
constructed on a pattern suggested by Mr. Francis Galton, and it was
not a success. It looked very pretty when set up in London, but it
proved thoroughly useless in the Alps. It was made of light canvas, and
opened like a book: one end was closed permanently and the other with
flaps: it was supported by two alpenstocks, and had the canvas sides
prolonged so as to turn in underneath. Numerous cords were sewn to the
lower edges, to which stones were to be attached, but the main
fastenings were by a cord which passed underneath the ridge and through
iron rings screwed into the tops of the alpenstocks, and were secured
by pegs. The wind, which playfully careered about the surrounding
cliffs, was driven through our gap with the force of a blow-pipe: the
flaps of the tent would not keep down, the pegs would not stay in, and
it exhibited so marked a desire to go to the top of the Dent Blanche
that we thought it prudent to take it down and to sit upon it. When
night came on we wrapped ourselves in it, and made our camp as
comfortable as the circumstances would allow. The silence was
impressive. No living thing was near our solitary bivouac; the Carrels
had turned back and were out of hearing; the stones had ceased to fall
and the trickling water to murmur—
“The music of whose liquid lip
Had been to us companionship,
And in our lonely life had grown
To have an almost human tone.”[7]
[7] J. G. Whittier.
It was bitterly cold. Water froze hard in a bottle under my head. Not
surprising, as we were actually on snow, and in a position where the
slightest wind was at once felt. For a time we dozed, but about
midnight there came from high aloft a tremendous explosion, followed by
a second of dead quiet. A great mass of rock had split off and was
descending toward us. My guide started up, wrung his hands and
exclaimed, “O my God, we are lost!” We heard it coming, mass after mass
pouring over the precipices, bounding and rebounding from cliff to
cliff, and the great rocks in advance smiting one another. They seemed
to be close, although they were probably distant, but some small
fragments, which dropped upon us at the same time from the ledges just
above, added to the alarm, and my demoralized companion passed the
remainder of the night in a state of shudder, ejaculating “Terrible!”
and other adjectives.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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