Another group of reliefs is even more thoroughly feminine. It is
dominated by the idea of adornment. The well-born ladies of Athens
took, as we know, great pains to enhance by art the charms which nature
had liberally bestowed upon them. The rouge-pot was a well-known part of
their arsenal, and is sometimes found in their graves. They were not,
like modern women, the humble slaves of a fashion which constantly
changes. The form and disposition of their garments varies but little
from century to century. But they were very particular as to pattern and
texture, and very careful that each garment should fall in the most
graceful and becoming folds. For jewelry they seem to have had a strong
liking, and it may be urged as a palliation of so frivolous a taste that
the Greek jewelry which has come down to us is in very good taste. The
custom of adorning oneself with huge diamonds and rubies, as a proof of
wealth, would have been considered barbaric in Greece. Jewelry was
mainly of gold, or even gilt bronze, of little material value, but
wrought by cunning workmen, in complete disregard of time, with
exquisite care and subtilty[203], so as to be in itself a thing of art
as well as a mere decoration. If stones were inserted in the metal, they
were quite common stones, sards and onyxes and the like, not cut in
facets, but carved in the form of scarabs, or engraved with beautifully
cut designs in intaglio. Like the dress, the pottery, and the coins of
the Greeks, and all the other surroundings of their life, their jewels
exhibited on a smaller scale the same unrivalled artistic taste which is
shown on a larger scale by their temples and their sculpture.
Pl. XXV. Hegeso, daughter of Proxenus, is seated to left on a chair
which is admirably shaped alike for comfort and steadiness. Her hair is
bound with a beautifully arranged kerchief; she wears the fine Ionic
chiton with sleeves and an over-dress. She is looking at a necklace
which she has drawn from a box held by a serving-girl, and which she
holds in both
[Illustration:
PLATE XXV
_Page 172_
]
hands. This necklace must have been represented either by help of colour
or metal. The slave-girl’s more simple dress contrasts with the elegance
of that of her mistress. The work seems to belong to the early part of
the fourth century. This monument is not in the Museum of Athens, but
remains in its place in the Cemetery by the Gate.
Pl. XXVI. We have once more a group of lady and jewel-box. But here the
attendant who brings the box seems from her dress to be no slave, but a
sister or relative. And the seated lady is not here attracted by the
jewels, but sits in pensive attitude; it may be, however, that her right
hand, which is near her neck, is holding a necklace already adjusted. In
some of the details in this relief there is clumsiness, for example in
the right arm of the standing figure; nevertheless the design is very
graceful.
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