Seaward Sussex: The South Downs from End to EndHolmes, Edric
History
Seaward Sussex: The South Downs from End to End
Holmes, Edric
Sussex (England) -- Description and travel
South-east of Harting is the isolated Beacon Hill, once a semaphore
station between Portsmouth and London; but instead of taking at once to
the heights, the pedestrian should first visit Elsted up on its own
little hill, and Treyford a mile farther; both churches are ruined and
deserted. A new church with a spire that forms a landmark for many
miles, stands midway between the two and serves both. Elsted has an inn
from the doorway of which the traveller has a superb view of the Downs.
From Treyford a bridle-path leads directly south to the summit of
Treyford Hill, where are five barrows called "The Devil's Jumps." From
here the track running along the top of the Down will bring us in two
miles to the bold spurs of Linch Down (818 feet), the finest view-point
on the western Downs, the views over the Weald being magnificent in all
directions. A track will have been noticed on the west side of the
summit, and a return should be made to this, and then by striking
southwards through the Westdean woods we eventually reach Chilgrove. We
might then climb the opposite spur and keep southwards until the ridge
rises to the escarpment of Bow Hill, but the finest walk of all and the
most fitting termination to our tour will be to keep to the rough road
which runs down the valley south-east to Welldown Farm. Here a road
turns right and in a little over a mile drops to the romantically
beautiful Kingley Vale.
This vale is a cup-shaped hollow in the south side of Bow Hill; its
steep sides are clothed in a sombre garb of yews and at the farther end
of the combe is a solemn grove of these venerable trees amid which
broad noon becomes a mystic twilight filled with the spirit of awe; a
fitting place for the burial of warrior kings with wild, barbaric rite.
Tradition has it that many Danish chieftains were here defeated and
slain and that here beneath the yews they rest. But who shall say what
other strange scenes these lonely deeps in the bosom of the hills have
witnessed before Saxon or Dane replaced the Celt; who in turn, for all
his fierce and arrogant ways, went, by night, in fear and trembling of
those spiteful little men he himself displaced, and whose vengeance or
pitiful gratitude is perpetuated in the first romances of our
childhood. Though their living homes were in the primeval forests of
the Britain that was, their last long resting places were under the
open skies on the summits of the wind-swept Downs. Many of the smooth
green barrows that enclosed their remains have been ruthlessly rifled
and desecrated by greed or curiosity. It is to be hoped that the
votaries of this form of archaeological research have now discovered all
that they desired to know, and that our far-off ancestors will be left
to the peace we do not grudge our more immediate forefathers.
Appendix
THE SUSSEX DOWNS FROM END TO END
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