English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
I was speaking just now of the growing tendency to desert the country
in favour of London. I said that it was difficult to feel sympathy with
people who voluntarily abandon Home, and all the duties and pleasures
which Home implies, in favour of Lennox Gardens or Portman Square; but
that one felt a lively compassion for those who make the exchange under
the pressure of--
"Bitter constraint and sad occasion dear."
Here, again, is another social change. In old days, when people wished
to economize, it was London that they deserted. They sold the "family
mansion" in Portland Place or Eaton Square; and, if they revisited the
glimpses of the social moon, they took a furnished house for six weeks
in the summer: the rest of the year they spent in the country. This
plan was a manifold saving. There was no rent to pay, and only very
small rates, for every one knows that country houses were shamefully
under-assessed. Carriages did not require repainting every season, and
no new clothes were wanted. "What can it matter what we wear here,
where every one knows who we are?" The products of the park, the home
farm, the hothouses, and the kitchen-garden kept the family supplied
with food. A brother magnate staying at Beaudesert with the famous
Lord Anglesey waxed enthusiastic over the mutton, and said, "Excuse
my asking you a plain question, but how much does this excellent
mutton cost you?" "Cost me?" screamed the hero. "Good Gad, it costs me
nothing! It's my own," and he was beyond measure astonished when his
statistical guest proved that "his own" cost him about a guinea per
pound. In another great house, conducted on strictly economical lines,
it was said that the very numerous family were reared exclusively on
rabbits and garden-stuff, and that their enfeebled constitutions and
dismal appearance in later life were due to this ascetic regimen.
People were always hospitable in the country, but rural entertaining
was not a very costly business. The "three square meals and a snack,"
which represent the minimum requirement of the present day, are a
huge development of the system which prevailed in my youth. Breakfast
had already grown from the tea and coffee, and rolls and eggs, which
Macaulay tells us were deemed sufficient at Holland House, to an affair
of covered dishes. Luncheon-parties were sometimes given--terrible
ceremonies which lasted from two to four; but the ordinary luncheon
of the family was really a snack from the servants' joint or
the children's rice-pudding; and five o'clock tea was actually
not invented. To remember, as I do, the foundress of that divine
refreshment seems like having known Stephenson or Jenner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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