English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
"the second course really remarkable," and noted the startling fact
that Sir Robert "boldly attacked his turbot with his knife." It was
he, I believe, who said of a rival Chancellor of the Exchequer that
his soup was made from "deferred stock." 'Twere long to trace the
same generous enthusiasm for Dinner through all Lord Beaconsfield's
Novels. He knew the Kitchen of the Past as well as of the Present.
Lady Annabel's Bill of Fare in "Venetia" is a monument of culinary
scholarship. Is there anything in fiction more moving than the agony of
the _chef_ at Lord Montacute's coming of age? "It was only by the most
desperate personal exertions that I rescued the _soufflés_. It was an
affair of the Bridge of Arcola." And, if it be objected that all these
scenes belong to a rather remote past, let us take this vignette of
the fashionable solicitor in "Lothair," Mr. Putney Giles, as he sits
down to dinner after a day of exciting work: "It is a pleasent thing
to see an opulent and prosperous man of business, sanguine and full
of health and a little overworked, at that royal meal, Dinner. How
he enjoys his soup! And how curious in his fish! How critical in his
_entrée_, and how nice in his Welsh mutton! His exhausted brain rallies
under the glass of dry sherry, and he realizes all his dreams with the
aid of claret that has the true flavour of the violet." "Doctors,"
said Thackeray, who knew and loved them, "notoriously dine well.
When my excellent friend Sangrado takes a bumper, and saying, with a
shrug and a twinkle of his eye, _Video meliora proboque, Deteriora
sequor_, tosses off the wine, I always ask the butler for a glass of
that bottle." That tradition of medical gastronomy dates from a remote
period of our history. "Culina," by far the richest Cookery-book ever
composed, was edited and given to the world in 1810 by a doctor--"A.
Hunter, M.D., F.R.S." Dr. William Kitchener died in 1827, but not
before his "Cook's Oracle" and "Peptic Precepts" had secured him an
undying fame. In our own days, Sir Henry Thompson's "Octaves" were the
most famous dinners in London, both as regards food and wine; and his
"Food and Feeding" is the best guide-book to greediness I know. But
here I feel that I am descending into details. "Dear Bob, I have seen
the mahoganies of many men." But to-day I am treating of Dinner rather
than of dinners--of the abstract Idea which has its real existence in
a higher sphere,--not of the concrete forms in which it is embodied
on this earth. Perhaps further on I may have a word to say about
"Dinners."
XXII
DINNERS
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