English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
_Sero sed serio._ It is the motto of the House of Cecil; and the late
Lord Salisbury, long detained by business at the Foreign Office and
at length sitting down to his well-earned dinner, used to translate
it--"Unpunctual, but hungry." Such a formula may suitably introduce
the subject of our present meditations; and, although that subject is
not temporary or ephemeral, but rather belongs to all time, still at
this moment it is specially opportune. Sir James Crichton-Browne has
been frightening us to death with dark tales of physical degeneration,
and he has been heartless enough to do so just when we are reeling
under the effects of Sir Victor Horsley's attack on Alcohol. Burke, in
opposing a tax on gin, pleaded that "mankind have in every age called
in some material assistance to their moral consolation." These modern
men of science tell us that we must by no means call in gin or any of
its more genteel kinsfolk in the great family of Alcohol. Water hardly
seems to meet the case--besides, it has typhoid germs in it. Tea and
coffee are "nerve-stimulants," and must therefore be avoided by a
neurotic generation. Physical degeneracy, then, must be staved off with
food; food, in a sound philosophy of life, means Dinner; and Dinner,
the ideal or abstraction, reveals itself to man in the concrete form of
Dinners.
Having thus formulated my theme, I part company, here and now, with
poets and romancists and all that dreamy crew, and betake myself, like
Mr. Gradgrind, to facts. In loftier phrase, I pursue the historic
method, and narrate, with the accuracy of Freeman, though, alas!
without the brilliancy of Froude, some of the actual dinners on which
mankind has lived. Creasy wrote of the "Fifteen Decisive Battles of
the World"--the Fifteen Decisive Dinners of the World would be a far
more interesting theme; but the generous catalogue unrolls its scroll,
and "fifteen" would have to be multiplied by ten or a hundred before
the tale was told. A friend of mine had a pious habit of pasting into
an album the _Menu_ of every dinner at which he had enjoyed himself.
Studying the album retrospectively, he used to put an asterisk against
the most memorable of these records. There were three asterisks against
the _Menu_ of a dinner given by Lord Lyons at the British Embassy at
Paris. "_Quails and Roman Punch_," said my friend with tears in his
voice. "You can't get beyond that." This evidently had been one of the
Fifteen Decisive Dinners of his gastronomic world. Did not the poet
Young exclaim, in one of his most pietistic "Night Thoughts,"
"The undevout Gastronomer is mad"?
Or, has an unintended "G" crept into the line?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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