English essays; Great Britain -- Social life and customs
sanctum of the "Marquis of Granby" at Dorking was flanked by nothing
more substantial than a plate of hot buttered toast.
Impressive, therefore, almost startling, is the abrupt transition
from these ill-supported teas (which, according to Dr. Wynn Westcott,
were hygienically sound) to the feast, defiant of all gastronomic
law, which Mrs. Snagsby spread for Mr. and Mrs. Chadband--"Dainty new
bread, crusty twists, cool fresh butter, thin slices of ham, tongue,
and German sausage, delicate little rows of anchovies nestling in
parsley, new-laid eggs brought up warm in a napkin, and hot buttered
toast." German sausage washed down with tea! What, oh what, would
the Coroner say? And what must be the emotions of the waiters at the
House of Commons, with their traditions of Bellamy's veal pies and
Mr. Disraeli's port, when they see the Labour Members sit down to a
refection of Tea and Brawn? But, it may be urged, Medical Science is
always shifting its ground, and what is the elixir of life to-day may
be labelled Poison to-morrow. Thus Thackeray, using his keenest art to
stigmatize the unwholesome greediness of a City Dinner, describes the
surfeited guests adjourning after dinner to the Tea Room, and there
"drinking slops and eating buttered muffins until the grease trickled
down their faces." This was written in 1847; but in 1823 the great Dr.
Kitchener, both physician and gastronomer, pronounces thus--"Tea after
Dinner assists Digestion, quenches Thirst, and thereby exhilarates the
Spirits," and he suggests as an acceptable alternative "a little warmed
Milk, with a teaspoonful of Rum, a bit of Sugar, and a little Nutmeg."
Truly our forefathers must have had remarkable digestions.
"These be black Vespers' pageants." I have spoken so far of Tea in the
evening. When did people begin to drink Tea in the morning? I seem to
remember that, in our earlier romancists and dramatists, Coffee is the
beverage for breakfast. Certainly it is so--and inimitably described
as well--in Lord Beaconsfield's account of a Yorkshire breakfast in
"Sybil." At Holland House, which was the very ark and sanctuary of
luxury, Macaulay in 1831 breakfasted on "very good coffee and very
good tea, and very good eggs, butter kept in the midst of ice, and
hot rolls." Here the two liquids are proffered, but meat is rigidly
excluded, and Dr. Wynn Westcott's law of life observed. But nine
years later the character of breakfast had altered, and altered in an
unwholesome direction. The increasing practice of going to Scotland
for the shooting season had familiarized Englishmen with the more
substantial fare of the Scotch breakfast, and since that time the
unhallowed combination of meat and tea has been the law of our English
breakfast-table. Sir Thomas in the "Ingoldsby Legends," on the morning
of his mysterious disappearance, had eaten for breakfast some bacon, an
egg, a little broiled haddock, and a slice of cold beef.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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