Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
The aspect of the old French town was very different from anything
English; whiter, infinitely cleaner; higher and narrower houses, the
entrance to most of which seeming to be through a great gateway
affording admission into a central court-yard; a public square, with a
statue in the middle, and another statue in a neighboring street. We
met priests in three-cornered hats, long frock-coats, and
knee-breeches; also soldiers and gendarmes, and peasants and children,
clattering over the pavements in wooden shoes.
It makes a great impression of outlandishness to see the signs over the
shop doors in a foreign tongue. If the cold had not been such as to
dull my sense of novelty, and make all my perceptions torpid, I should
have taken in a set of new impressions, and enjoyed them very much. As
it was, I cared little for what I saw, but yet had life enough left to
enjoy the Cathedral of Amiens, which has many features unlike those of
English cathedrals.
It stands in the midst of the cold, white town, and has a
high-shouldered look to a spectator accustomed to the minsters of
England, which cover a great space of ground in proportion to their
height. The impression the latter give is of magnitude and mass; this
French Cathedral strikes one as lofty. The exterior is venerable, tho
but little time-worn by the action of the atmosphere; and statues still
keep their places in numerous niches, almost as perfect as when first
placed there in the thirteenth century. The principal doors are deep,
elaborately wrought, pointed arches; and the interior seemed to us, at
the moment, as grand as any that we had seen, and to afford as vast an
idea of included space; it being of such an airy height, and with no
screen between the chancel and nave, as in all the English cathedrals.
We saw the differences, too, betwixt a church in which the same form of
worship for which it was originally built is still kept up, and those
of England, where it has been superseded for centuries; for here, in
the recess of every arch of the side-aisles, beneath each lofty window,
there was a chapel dedicated to some saint, and adorned with great
marble sculptures of the crucifixion, and with pictures, execrably bad,
in all cases, and various kinds of gilding and ornamentation. Immensely
tall wax candles stand upon the altars of these chapels, and before one
sat a woman, with a great supply of tapers, one of which was burning. I
suppose these were to be lighted as offerings to the saints, by the
true believers. Artificial flowers were hung at some of the shrines, or
placed under glass.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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