Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
On gazing at this splendid monument of ancient piety and
liberality--and with one's mind deeply intent upon the characters of
the deceased--let us fancy we hear the sound of the great bell from the
southwest tower--called the Amboise Tower--erected, both the bell and
the tower, by the uncle and minister of Amboise. Know, my dear friend,
that there was once a bell (and the largest in Europe, save one), which
used to send forth its sound for three successive centuries from the
said tower. This bell was broken about thirty years ago, and destroyed
in the ravages of the immediately succeeding years. The southwest tower
remains, and the upper part of the central tower, with the whole of the
lofty wooden spire--the fruits of the liberality of the excellent men
of whom such honorable mention has been made. Considering that this
spire is very lofty, and composed of wood, it is surprising that it has
not been destroyed by tempest or by lightning.
Leaving the cathedral, you pass a beautifully sculptured fountain, of
the early time of Francis I., which stands at the corner of the street,
to the right; and which, from its central situation, is visited the
livelong day for the sake of its limpid waters. Push on a little
further, then, turning to the right, you get into a sort of square, and
observe the abbey--or rather the west front of it--full in face of you.
You gaze, and are first struck with its matchless window: call it rose,
or marigold, as you please.
I think, for delicacy and richness of ornament, this window is
perfectly unrivaled. There is a play of line in the mullions, which,
considering their size and strength, may be pronounced quite a
masterpiece of art. You approach, regretting the neglected state of the
lateral towers, and enter through the large and completely opened
center doors, the nave of the abbey. It was toward sunset when we made
our first entrance. The evening was beautiful; and the variegated tints
of sunbeam, admitted through the stained glass of the window, just
noticed, were perfectly enchanting. The window itself, as you look
upward, or rather as you fix your eye upon the center of it, from the
remote end of the abbey, or the Lady's Chapel, was a perfect blaze of
dazzling light; and nave, choir, and side aisles seemed magically
illumined. We declared instinctively that the Abbey of St. Ouen could
hardly have a rival--certainly not a superior.
Let me, however, put in a word for the organ. It is immense, and
perhaps larger than that belonging to the cathedral. The tin pipes
(like those of the organ in the cathedral) are of their natural color.
I paced the pavement beneath, and think that this organ can not be
short of forty English feet in length. Indeed, in all the churches
which I have yet seen, the organs strike me as being of magnificent
dimensions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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