Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
History
Seeing Europe with Famous Authors, Volume 3: France and the Netherlands, Part 1
France -- Description and travel; Netherlands -- Description and travel
What nobler ornament can there be than the Roman baths at the foot of
Mont Cavalier, and the delightful old garden that surrounds them? All
that quarter of Nîmes has every reason to be proud of itself; it has
been revealed to the world at large by copious photography. A clear,
abundant stream gushes from the foot of a high hill (covered with trees
and laid out in paths), and is distributed into basins which
sufficiently refer themselves to the period that gave them birth--the
period that has left its stamp on that pompous Peyrou which we admired
at Montpellier. Here are the same terraces and steps and balustrades,
and a system of water-works less impressive, perhaps, but very
ingenious and charming.
The whole place is a mixture of old Rome and of the French eighteenth
century; for the remains of the antique baths are in a measure
incorporated in the modern fountains. In a corner of this umbrageous
precinct stands a small Roman ruin, which is known as a temple of
Diana, but was more apparently a nymphaeum, and appears to have had a
graceful connection with the adjacent baths. I learn from Murray that
this little temple, of the period of Augustus, "was reduced to its
present state of ruin in 1577;" the moment at which the towns-people,
threatened with a siege by the troops of the crown, partly demolished
it, lest it should serve as a cover to the enemy. The remains are very
fragmentary, but they serve to show that the place was lovely. I spent
half an hour in it on a perfect Sunday morning (it is enclosed by a
high grille, carefully tended, and has a warden of its own), and with
the help of my imagination tried to reconstruct a little the aspect of
things in the Gallo-Roman days.
I do wrong, perhaps, to say that I tried; from a flight so deliberate I
should have shrunk. But there was a certain contagion of antiquity in
the air; and among the ruins of baths and temples, in the very spot
where the aqueduct that crosses the Garden in the wondrous manner I had
seen discharged itself, the picture of a splendid paganism seemed
vaguely to glow. Roman baths--Roman baths; those words alone were a
scene.
Everything was changed; I was strolling in a jardin français; the bosky
slope of the Mont Cavalier (a very modest mountain), hanging over the
place, is crowded with a shapeless tower, which is as likely to be of
medieval as of antique origin; and yet, as I leaned on the parapet of
one of the fountains, where a flight of curved steps (a hemicycle, as
the French say) descended into a basin full of dark, cool recesses,
where the slabs of the Roman foundations gleam through the clear green
water--as in this attitude I surrendered myself to contemplation and
reverie, it seemed to me that I touched for a moment the ancient world.
Such moments are illuminating, and the light of this one mingles, in my
memory, with the dusky greenness of the Jardin de la Fontaine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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