Seeing the West: Suggestions for the Westbound TravellerDumbell, K. E. M. (Kate Ethel Mary)
History
Seeing the West: Suggestions for the Westbound Traveller
Dumbell, K. E. M. (Kate Ethel Mary)
West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
“There are many ways of getting into the Hopi country, but there are
three commonly used routes, each of which has certain advantages. At the
starting-point of each one of them conveyances may easily be secured for
the trip. The three points are the stations of Holbrook, Winslow, and
Canyon Diablo, all along the line of the Santa Fé. The Hopi country
stretches out north of these three stations; the distance is about the
same from each. Holbrook possesses one advantage over the other two
routes: the town is situated on the Hopi side of the Little Colorado
River; consequently, the question as to whether the river is fordable
need not be considered.
“The distance from Holbrook to Wolpi, the easternmost of the Hopi
villages, is about 80 miles. This trip, with camping outfit, usually
requires about three days.
“Winslow, a much larger town than Holbrook, is a division point on the
Santa Fé, and has several hotels and livery stables. Of the latter the
writer is able to recommend, from much personal experience, that kept by
Mr. Creswell. The route from Winslow to Oraibi, the westernmost village,
is not quite 80 miles.
“Canyon Diablo has neither hotel nor livery stable. Mr. Volz, the Indian
trader at this point, will, with advance notice, furnish the
necessities. Should there be ladies in the party, and should it be
possible to secure Mr. Volz’s personal services for the journey, this
route offers certain advantages not to be found by either of the other
two, and the cost is about the same.
“Whether our journey be made in winter or summer, spring or autumn, we
are sure to intrude upon (for they are not to be considered in any sense
as ‘shows’) one or more of the great ceremonials, usually an invocation
for rain, a propitiation of the gods of the winds for bountiful
harvests, or a general thanksgiving for protection, with the brilliant
public pageant at the close. But smile not at the curious sand altars,
with the ‘tiponi’ or palladium of the fraternity, the childlike ‘bahos’
and ‘nakwakwosi,’ or prayer-sticks and offerings, nor let the ears or
eyes be offended by the chanting of the songs to the gods of sun, of
winds and of rain, or the ceremonial dances of the priests, for they are
serious affairs to the native participants.”[3]
“It is in these strange, cliff-perched little cities that one of the
most astounding barbaric dances in the world is held. Africa has no
savages whose mystic performances are more wonderful than the Hopi snake
dance.
“The snake is an object of great respect among all uncivilized peoples,
and the deadlier his power, the deeper the reverence for him. The Hopi
often protect in their houses an esteemed and harmless serpent—about
five or six feet long—as a mouse trap; and these quiet mousers keep down
the little pests much more effectively than a cat, for they can follow
shee-id-deh to the ultimate comer of his hole.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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