Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
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Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
Themistocles has conducted them, with much cracking
of his whip, much irrelevant conversation, quite to
the other side of what once was Syracuse, and has deposited
them before a little low gate that pierces a high
wall. Inside this gate is a tiny garden cultivated by
two monks who do the work by means of short-handled
double-ended hoes; a laborious-looking Sicilian implement.
The garden is full of pansies growing between
low hedges of sweet-smelling thyme and rosemary.
At the same moment there debarks a carriage
load of touring Germans. Typical touring Germans;
solid, rosy, set four-square to the winds; all clinging
to Baedekers encased in covers of red and yellow cross
stitch of Berlin wool, all breathing a fixed intention of
seeing everything worth seeing in the thorough-going
German fashion. The monks openly squabble as to
the division of the parties who have come to see the
church and the catacombs, and eventually the big,
shaggy, red-haired one, who might be some ancient
savage Gaul come to life, sullenly carries off the Teutons.
It is somewhat of a shock to Jane and Peripatetica
169when their slim, supple, handsome Sicilian explains
to them that this contest has its reason not in their personal
charm, but is owing to a reluctance to guide the
hated Tedeschi.
There is something inexplicable in this universal unpopularity
of the Teuton in Italy. Germany has been
dotingly sentimental about Italy for generations.
“Kennst du das Land”
has hovered immanent on every lip from beyond the
Rhine ever since the days of Goethe. They passionately
study her language, her literature, her monuments,
and her history. They make pilgrimages to
worship at all her shrines, pouring in reverent Pan-Germanic
hordes across the Alps to do it, and despite
their extreme and skilful frugality they must necessarily
leave in the Peninsula hundreds of thousands of
their hard-earned, laboriously hoarded marks, which
they have not grudged to spend in the service of beauty.
Yet Italy seems possessed of a sullen repugnance to the
entire race.
“Tedeschi!” hisses the monk. “Tutto ‘Ja! Ja!
Wunderschön!’” with a deliriously funny imitation of
their accent and gestures, as he steers swiftly around a
corner to prevent the two parties fusing into one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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