Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
208Still sternly shepherded by the small guide they
climbed down again to make a closer acquaintance
with the Oratory of Phalaris. Phalaris of the infamous
legend of the brazen bull, into whose heated body were
cast the enemies of the ancient Tyrant of Akragas,
because that humorous gentleman’s fancy was highly
diverted by the similarity of their moanings, as they
slowly roasted, to the lowing of kine. It is said that
he fretted a good deal because nobody else appeared
to think the thing as good a joke as it seemed to him,
but then taste in jests will differ, unfortunately. The
Carthagenians when they came over and conquered
Sicily were quite delighted with the ingenious toy, and
carried it off triumphantly to Africa. They were
finished artists in torture themselves, and appreciated
a valuable new idea. Scipio found the bull in Carthage,
when he made a final end of that city, and he
returned it to Akragas, but appetite for really poignant
fun appears to have died out by that time, and Fortunato,
whom they consulted, seemed to think it was
probably eventually broken up for the purpose of manufacturing
braziers, or possibly warming-pans.
Memory of the Bull almost obscured the fact that
the Oratory was a beautiful Greek chapel, such as was
used to hold some statue of a god, and the memorials
of ancestors, and served for private daily devotions
without need of a priest. The Normans had the same
habit of private family chapels, so the Oratory had
served them in turn, being pierced by a Norman window
and the square-headed entrance door fitted with
an arch.
Half a dozen races and centuries had each had a
hand in the Church and Convent of San Niccola too,
209apparently. It was built from stones filched from that
vast ruin of the Temple of Zeus they were on their
roundabout way to see, and which has always been an
exhaustless quarry for Girgenti. So late as in the last
century the huge stones that formed the Porto Empedocle,
a long mole from which the sulphur is shipped,
were stolen from poor Zeus. Doors, windows, roofs,
arches, had been added or changed in San Niccola,
just as each generation needed, and each in the taste
of the period. The holy-water stoup at the entrance,
for example, was an enormous marble hand, taken
from one of the temples. For the Greeks too had
fonts of holy water, consecrated by plunging into it a
burning torch from the altar, and as the worshippers
entered they were asperged with a branch of laurel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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