Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
“No, of course, you wouldn’t,” said Peripatetica resentfully.
“And when we try to tell it to people at
home they’ll simply say our style is ‘plushy.’ There’s
nothing so resented as an attempt to carry back in
words to a pale-coloured country the incredible splendours
of the south. The critics always call it ‘orchid
and cockatoo writing,’ and sulkily declare, whenever
they do have a fairly nice colourful day, that they are
sure the tropics have nothing finer, whereas, if they
only knew, it is but an echo of an echo of the real
thing, and—” but words failed even Peripatetica.
On the breezy height, dominating all the deep-toned
landscape, stood the Abbey church of Monreale—truly
a royal mount, crowned by one of the finest shrines in
Europe. The famous bronze doors of the main entrance
had been oxidised by time and weather with a
patine of greens and blues that lent subtle values to
the bold delicate modelling of the metal, framed in a
244toothed doorway of warm, cream-tinted stone, whose
magic harmony of colour was a fitting preliminary to
the lofty glories of the interior. An unbelievable interior!
faced throughout its three hundred and thirty-three
feet of length with millions upon millions of tiny
stones, gold and red and blue—stones of every colour.
For all the interior they found, up to the very roof,
was of this dim, glowing, gold-mosaic set with pictures
of the Christian faith—the creation of Adam and Eve,
the temptation by the Serpent, the casting out from
Eden, the wrestling of Jacob, the whole Bible history,
culminating above the altar in a gigantic Christ. More
than 700,000 square feet of pictures made of bits of
stone; and around and about pulpit, ambo, and altar,
across steps and pavement, and enclosing every window
and door, lovely mosaic patterns and devices, no
two alike....
Brown-faced old peasants pushed aside the leathern
curtain at the entrance and knelt, crossing themselves,
in the shadow of enormous pillars, as their forebears
had knelt and crossed themselves there for a thousand
years. A mass droned from a side altar. Groups of
young priests-in-the-making sauntered gossipping in
whispers, or coming and going on ecclesiastic errands.
Knots of tourists stared and wandered about the great
spaces, and from behind the high altar rose boys’ voices
at choir practice, echoing thin and pure from the painted
roof.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica — John Shaqi
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