Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
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Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
... It is Palm Sunday, and Jane and Peripatetica
are at a reception—otherwise a Sicilian high mass.
They have come, still on the trail of their beloved Normans,
who have almost ousted the Greeks in their
affections, to the Cappella Palatina in the Royal Palace.
The chapel is less than a third as large as Monreale
but is even more golden, more dimly splendid, more
richly beautiful than the Abbey Church. It is crowded
246to the doors. Everywhere candles wink and drip in
the blue clouds of incense. The voices of boys soar in
a poignant treble, and the organ tones of men answer
antiphonally. The priests mutter and drone, and occasionally
take snuff. Mass goes on at a dozen side
altars, oblivious of the more stately ceremonies conducted
in the chancel. The congregation comes and
goes. A family with all the children, including baby
and nounou, enter and pray and later go out. Aristocrats
and their servants kneel side by side. The
crowd thickens and melts again, and companions separate
to choose different altars and different masses,
according to taste. All are familiar, friendly, at ease.
The divine powers are holding a reception, and worshippers,
having paid their respects, feel free to leave
when they like. Long palm branches are carried to
the altar from time to time by arriving visitors, each
branch more splendid than the last. Palms braided
and knotted, fluttering with ribbons, tied with rosettes
of scarlet and blue, wrought with elaborate intricacies—hundreds
of branches, which are solemnly sanctified,
asperged, censed, with many genuflections. Priests in
gold, in white, in scarlet, accompanied by candles,
swinging censors and chanting, take up the palms and
make a circuit of all the altars among the kneeling
worshippers, and finally distribute the branches to
their owners who bear their treasures away proudly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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