Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
It was Gaspero who took them to the lofty shrine of
Santa Rosalia on Monte Pellegrino; that grotto where
lived the royal maiden hermit, and where lie her bones
within the tomb on which Gregorio Tedeschi has made
an image of her in marble with a golden robe, glowing
dimly in the light of a hundred lamps. On that rosy
height, dominating the beautiful landscape, Gaspero
told them the story of the niece of William the Good,
whose asceticism and devotion set so deep a seal of reverence
upon the people of Palermo that they enshrined
her as the city’s patron saint, and still celebrate her
254memory every year with a great festival. All the population
climb the hill in July to say a prayer in her
windy eyrie, and the enormous car bearing her image
is dragged through the city’s streets, so towering in its
gilded glories that one of the city gates has been unroofed
to permit of its entrance. At that time the
Marina—the wide sea-front street—instead of being
merely a solemn Corso for the staid afternoon drive
of the upper classes, becomes the scene of a sort of
Pagan Saturnalia. The Galoppo takes place then—races
of unmounted free horses—delicious races, Gaspero
says, in which there can be no jockeying, and in
which the generous-blooded animals strive madly to
distance each other from sheer love of the sport and
the rivalry. A gay people’s revel, this, of flying hoofs
and tossing manes; of dancing feet; of cries and songs;
mandolins, pipes, and guitars fluting and twittering.
The water-sellers with their glittering carts and delicate
bubble-like bottles crying acqua fredda, offering golden
orange juice, and the beloved pink anisette. The
Polichinello booths, the open-air puppet shows, the
toy-sellers with their tall poles hung with sparkling
trifles, the tables spread with dainties of rosy sugar,
with melting pastries, with straw-covered flasks of
wine. All perspiring, talking, laughing, guzzling, gormandising
in honour of the anæmic, ascetic girl who
passed long, lonely, silent days and nights in passionate
ecstasies and visions in those high, voiceless solitudes.
Gaspero made it all very vivid, with hands,
lips, eyes. He was possessed with the drama and
strange irony of it.
255“Have the Signorine ever seen a Sicilian puppet
show?” Gaspero demanded, à propos of nothing in particular,
turning from a brown study on the box to inquire.
He plainly intended that this should be a memorable
day.
No; the Signorine had not seen a puppet show. If
they properly should see one then they would see one.
It was for Gaspero to judge. Very well, then. He
would come for them at half past eight that evening—at
least, he added with proud modesty, if the Signorine
would not object to his wearing his best clothes. His
festa garments, and not the uniform of his calling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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