Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
All that quiet falling day Jane and Peripatetica wandered
in the transformed monastery, staring at the
great metopes; lingering among the Saracenic carvings
and jewelled windows, poring over Phœnician
seals; over the amazing ecclesiastic needlework, the gold
monstrances, the carved gems, and last and best of all
270some delicious reliefs at sight of which they forgave at
once and forever their old enemy, the Eighteenth Century,
for all its disgusting crimes against beauty. They
sought madly through the books for some mention of
these tall, adorable nymphs in adorably impossible
attitudes, these curled and winged and dimpled babies,
fluttering like fat little wrens sweetly ignorant of the
laws of gravitation; but as always on any subject of
interest Baedeker and the rest frigidly refused to tell
the name of the man out of whose head and hands had
grown these enchanting figures.
“Oh, dear Unknown!” cries Jane regretfully, “why
is your noble name buried in silence! I wish to make
a pilgrimage to your tomb, to cover it with Sicilian
roses, and breathe a prayer for the repose of your sweet
and gracious soul.”
“Me too!” echoes Peripatetica, in tender scorn of
the stodgy rules of English grammar.
The Paschal season is near.
Always, in all lands of all faiths, the coming of Spring,
the yearly resurrection of life and nature, has been welcomed
with gladness. The occultation of Osiris, of
Baldur, of Persephone, of the Christ, is mourned; their
coming again hailed with flowers and feasting.
Palermo is filling with visitors; with a glory of flowers
and verdure in which the loveliest city in the world
grows daily lovelier. The Conca d’Oro—the Shell of
Gold—swims in a golden sea of sunshine.
On the Wednesday before Easter the whole population
exchanges cakes. Cakes apotheosized by surprising
splendours of icing; icing, gilded, silvered, snowily
271sculptured into Loves and angels and figures of national
heroes. Icing wrought into elaborate garlands tinted
rose, purple, and green; built into towers and ornate
architectural devices. Structures of confectionery three
feet high are borne on big platters between two men.
Every child carries gay little cakes to be presented to
grandparents and godparents, to cousins and playmates.
All Maundy Thursday the population moves from
church to church. Masses moan incessant in every
chapel. Before the Virgins on every street-shrine,
draped in black, candles blaze and drip. Priests and
monks hurry to and fro, bent upon preparations for the
great spectacle of the morrow.
Friday morning early all Palermo is in the streets in
its best attire. Small children dressed as little cardinals,
as nuns, as priests, bishops, angels with gilded
wings, as Virgins, as John the Baptist, are on their way
to the churches from which the processions are to flow.
Monks and friars gather from outlying country convents.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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