Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and PeripateticaBisland, Elizabeth
General
Seekers in Sicily: Being a Quest for Persephone by Jane and Peripatetica
Bisland, Elizabeth
Sicily (Italy) -- Description and travel
One little spider, about ten minutes old, lay in wait
for these two tourist flies at the side door of the Cathedral
with an offer to guide them, and though they
sternly endeavoured to brush the insect aside, doubting
his infantile capacity to direct their older intelligences,
the Spider was not of the to-be-brushed-aside
variety and knew better than they what they really
needed. While they wandered through the vulgar
uglinesses of Zosimus’ shrine, trying to recall Cicero’s
glowing picture of the temple in its glory, he never took
his claws off of them. While they talked of the great
doors inlaid with gold and ivory, of the brazen spears,
of the cella walls frescoed with the portraits and the
battles of the Sikel Kings, of the pedestals between each
column bearing images of the gods in ivory, silver, and
bronze, the Spider was patient and merely murmured
“Greco” or “molto antico” by way of encouraging
chorus. He let them babble unchecked of the tall
image of armed Pallas standing behind the altar, with
plumed helmet and robe of Tyrian purple, grasping her
great spear in her right hand and resting the left hand
upon the golden shield that bore a sculptured Medusa
head. Upon her pedestal was carved the cock, the
dragon, and the serpent, and the altar before her was
heaped with fresh olive boughs about the smouldering
spices sending up wavering clouds of scented smoke that
coiled among the ceiling’s gilded plates. Without, upon
the roof, stood another great shield of gilded bronze, a
beacon for sailors who, setting out upon long voyages, carried
a cup of burning ashes from her altar to sprinkle on
the waves as the glittering landmark faded down the sky.
150But when these reminiscences of the “molto antico”
finally exhausted themselves, the Spider rose to his
occasion. He was vague about Minerva, but Santa
Lucia was his trump card. He was eminently capable
of guiding any number of travellers to the chapel of
that big swarthy idol adorned with wire-and-cotton
wreaths, and hung about with votive silver hands and
hearts, arms and legs, in grateful testimony of the
limbs and organs cured by her mercy and power. He
could pour out in burning Sicilian, illustrated by superb
spidery gestures, a thrilling description of the
yearly villegiatura of Syracuse’s patron saint. How
twice in a twelvemonth she feels the need of change
of air, and all the town attends her visit of a few days
to the church beyond the bridge, she being escorted by
priests and censors, and blaring bands, and wearing her
finest jewels and toilet, as befits a lady on ceremonial
travels. It is a festa for all Syracuse, Spider explains,
with much good eating and “molto buono vino.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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