Agricultural labour is cheap—thirty cents per day—but land is dear, as the great landholders stick to it, and it is only gradually coming into the market. To get it, one has to know the owners and be familiar with the language, the country, and local circumstances. The system of cultivation is everywhere _metayer_; the great landholders furnish the stock, implements, and seed to their Indian peons (the “ryot” of British India), and make advances for their maintenance. The peon takes half of the crop that he raises, less the amount he has borrowed for maintenance while raising it, and is cheated at every turn and transaction. Of course on such terms much of these great estates remains uncultivated, and no doubt the owners will gradually be persuaded to sell land. CHAPTER XXXIV Curious customs—The abuse of concessions—Flagrant examples—Prospects for foreigners in Mexico—President Diaz—Mr. Denny’s Life-story. One of the curious customs in Mexico is the blessing of animals on the 17th of January, the feast of Saint Anthony. On this day at the Merced (Mercy) Church of this city, from four o’clock in the afternoon till dark, the people bring all their animals to be sprinkled with holy water and blessed by the priest. All the animals are highly decorated (I have seen dogs painted all the colours of the rainbow and covered with ribbons for this occasion), and every kind, horses, chickens, goats, pigs, cats, cows, all are brought to the street in front of the church, when the priest comes out and walks down the line, sprinkling them. In some matters Mexico keeps abreast of the times, and possibly is ahead of India and even England. For instance, a dirigible balloon was brought here from the States and run by an American, who could handle it perfectly, going wherever he wished and sailing or swooping at will. It was brought by a Mexican tobacco firm to advertise their cigarettes! I doubt if India or England has yet begun to advertise with dirigibles. It was also, incidentally, a godsend to the _rateros_, pickpockets and thieves, who reaped a harvest while every one was gaping at the heavens.