Servia, Youngest Member of the European Family: or, A Residence in Belgrade and Travels in the Highlands and Woodlands of the Interior, during the years 1843 and 1844.Paton, A. A. (Andrew Archibald)
History
Servia, Youngest Member of the European Family: or, A Residence in Belgrade and Travels in the Highlands and Woodlands of the Interior, during the years 1843 and 1844.
Paton, A. A. (Andrew Archibald)
Serbia -- Description and travel
In the public offices, the paper is, as in Germany, atrociously
coarse, being something like that with which parcels are wrapped up in
England; and sand is used instead of blotting paper. They commence
business early in the morning, at eight o'clock, and go on till
twelve, at which hour everybody goes to the mid-day meal. They
commence again at four o'clock, and terminate at seven, which is the
hour of supper. The reason of this is, that almost everybody takes a
siesta.
The public offices throughout the interior of Servia are plain houses,
with white-washed walls, deal desks, shelves, and presses, but having
been recently built, have generally a respectable appearance. The
Chancery of State and Senate house are also quite new constructions,
close to the palace; but in the country, a Natchalnik transacts a
great deal of business in his own house.
Servia contains within itself the forms of the East and the West, as
separately and distinctly as possible. See a Natchalnik in the back
woods squatted on his divan, with his enormous trowsers, smoking his
pipe, and listening to the contents of a paper, which his secretary,
crouching and kneeling on the carpet, reads to him, and you have the
Bey, the Kaimacam, or the Mutsellim before you. See M. Petronievitch
scribbling in his cabinet, and you have the _Furstlicher
Haus-Hof-Staats-und Conferenz-Minister_ of the meridian of Saxe or
Hesse.
Servia being an agricultural country, and not possessing a sea-port,
there does not exist an influential, mercantile, or capitalist class
_per se_. Greeks, Jews, and Tsinsars, form a considerable proportion
of those engaged in the foreign trade: it is to be remarked that most
of this class are secret adherents of the Obrenovitch party, while the
wealthy native Servians support Kara Georgevitch.
In Belgrade, the best tradesmen are Germans, or Servians, who have
learned their business at Pesth; or Temeswar; but nearly all the
retailers are Servians.
Having treated so fully the aspects and machinery of Oriental life, in
my work on native society in Damascus and Aleppo, it is not necessary
that I should say here any thing of Moslem manners and customs. The
Turks in Belgrade are nearly all of a very poor class, and follow the
humblest occupations. The river navigation causes many hands to be
employed in boating; and it always seemed to me that the proportion
of the turbans on the river exceeded that of the Christian short fez.
Most of the porters on the quay of Belgrade are Turks in their
turbans, which gives the landing-place, on arrival from Semlin, a more
Oriental look than the Moslem population of the town warrants. From
the circumstance of trucks being nearly unknown in this country, these
Turkish porters carry weights that would astonish an Englishman, and
show great address in balancing and dividing heavy weights among them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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