Servia, Youngest Member of the European Family: or, A Residence in Belgrade and Travels in the Highlands and Woodlands of the Interior, during the years 1843 and 1844.Paton, A. A. (Andrew Archibald)
History
Servia, Youngest Member of the European Family: or, A Residence in Belgrade and Travels in the Highlands and Woodlands of the Interior, during the years 1843 and 1844.
Paton, A. A. (Andrew Archibald)
Serbia -- Description and travel
When I went to bed, the assembled peasantry were in the full tide of
merriment, but without excess. The only person somewhat the worse of
the bottle was the threadbare priest with the gallows look.
I fell asleep with a low confused murmur of droning bagpipes, jingling
drinking cups, occasional laughter, and other noises. I dreamed, I
know not what absurdities; suddenly a solemn swelling chorus of
countless voices gently interrupted my slumbers--the room was filled
with light, and the sun on high was beginning to begild an irregular
parallelogram in the wainscot, when I started up, and hastily drew on
some clothes. Going out to the _makaa_, I perceived yesterday's
assembly of merry-making peasants quadrupled in number, and all
dressed in their holiday costume, thickset on their knees down the
avenue to the church, and following a noble old hymn, I sprang out of
the postern, and, helping myself with the grasp of trunks of trees,
and bared roots and bushes, clambered up one of the sides of the
hollow, and attaining a clear space, looked down with wonder and
pleasure on the singular scene. The whole pit, of this theatre of
verdure appeared covered with a carpet of white and crimson, for such
were the prevailing colours of the rustic costumes. When I thought of
the trackless solitude of the sylvan ridges round me, I seemed to
witness one of the early communions of Christianity, in those ages
when incense ascended to the Olympic deities in gorgeous temples,
while praise to the true God rose from the haunts of the wolf, the
lonely cavern, or the subterranean vault.
When church service was over I examined the dresses more minutely. The
upper tunic of the women was a species of surtout of undyed cloth,
bordered with a design of red cloth of a liner description. The
stockings in colour and texture resembled those of Persia, but were
generally embroidered at the ankle with gold and silver thread. After
the mid-day meal we descended, accompanied by the monks. The lately
crowded court-yard was silent and empty. "What," said I, "all
dispersed already?" The superior smiled, and said nothing. On going out
of the gate, I paused in a state of slight emotion. The whole
assembled peasantry were marshalled in two rows, and standing
uncovered in solemn silence, so as to make a living avenue to the
bridge.
The Igoumen then publicly expressed the pleasure my visit had given to
the people, and in their name thanked me, and wished me a prosperous
journey, repeating a phrase I had heard before: "God be praised that
Servia has at length seen the day that strangers come from afar to see
and know the people!"
I took off my fez, and said, "Do you know, Father Igoumen, what has
given me the most pleasure in the course of my visit?"
_Ig_. "I can scarcely guess."
_Author_. "I have seen a large assembly of peasantry, and not a trace
of poverty, vice, or misery; the best proof that both the civil and
ecclesiastical authorities do their duty."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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