England -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- England; Shakespeare, William, 1564-1616 -- Homes and haunts -- England
How dim and silent now are all those narrow and dingy little streets and
lanes around Paul's churchyard and the Temple, where Johnson and
Goldsmith loved to ramble! More than once have I wandered there, in the
late hours of the night, meeting scarce a human creature, but conscious
of a royal company indeed, of the wits and poets and players of a
far-off time. Darkness now, on busy Smithfield, where once the frequent,
cruel flames of bigotry shed forth a glare that sickened the light of
day. Murky and grim enough to-night is that grand processional walk in
St. Bartholomew's church, where the great gray pillars and splendid
Norman arches of the twelfth century are mouldering in neglect and
decay. Sweet to fancy and dear in recollection, the old church comes
back to me now, with the sound of children's voices and the wail of the
organ strangely breaking on its pensive rest. Stillness and peace over
arid Bunhill Fields---the last haven of many a Puritan worthy, and
hallowed to many a pilgrim as the resting-place of Bunyan and of Watts.
In many a park and gloomy square the watcher now would hear only a
rustling of leaves or the fretful twitter of half-awakened birds. Around
Primrose Hill and out toward Hampstead many a night-walk have I taken,
that seemed like rambling in a desert--so dark and still are the walled
houses, so perfect is the solitude. In Drury Lane, even at this late
hour, there would be some movement; but cold and dense as ever the
shadows are resting on that little graveyard behind it, where Lady
Dedlock went to die. To walk in Bow Street now,--might it not be to meet
the shades of Waller and Wycherley and Betterton, who lived and died
there; to have a greeting from the silver-tongued Barry; or to see, in
draggled lace and ruffles, the stalwart figure and flushed and
roystering countenance of Henry Fielding? Very quiet now are those grim
stone chambers in the terrible Tower of London, where so many tears have
fallen and so many noble hearts been split with sorrow. Does Brackenbury
still kneel in the cold, lonely, vacant chapel of St. John; or the sad
ghost of Monmouth hover in the chancel of St. Peter's? How sweet tonight
would be the rustle of the ivy on the dark walls of Hadley church, where
late I breathed the rose-scented air and heard the warbling thrush, and
blessed, with a grateful heart, the loving kindness that makes such
beauty in the world! Out there on the hillside of Highgate, populous
with death, the starlight gleams on many a ponderous tomb and the white
marble of many a sculptured statue, where dear and famous names will
lure the traveller's footsteps for years to come. There Lyndhurst rests,
in honour and peace, and there is hushed the tuneful voice of
Dempster--never to be heard any more, either when snows are flying or
"when green leaves come again." Not many days have passed since I stood
there, by the humble gravestone of poor Charles Harcourt, that fine
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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