England -- Description and travel; Literary landmarks -- England; Shakespeare, William, 1564-1616 -- Homes and haunts -- England
To muse over the dust of those about whom we have read so much--the
great actors, thinkers, and writers, the warriors and statesmen for whom
the play is ended and the lights are put out--is to come very near to
them, and to realise more deeply than ever before their close
relationship with our own humanity; and we ought to be wiser and better
for this experience. It is good, also, to seek out the favourite haunts
of our heroes, and call them up as they were in their lives. One of the
happiest accidents of a London stroll was the finding of the Harp
Tavern,¹ in Russell Street, Covent Garden, near the stage door of Drury
Lane theatre, which was the accustomed resort of Edmund Kean.
¹ An account of the Harp, in the _Victuallers' Gazette_, says that this
tavern has had within its doors every actor of note since the days of
Garrick, and many actresses, also, of the latter part of the eighteenth
century; and it mentions, as visitants there, Dora Jordan, Nance
Oldfield, Anne Bracegirdle, Kitty Clive, Harriet Mellon, Barton Booth,
Quin, Cibber, Macklin, Grimaldi, Eliza Vestris, and Miss Stephens--who
became Countess of Essex.
Carpenters and masons were at work upon it when I entered, and it was
necessary almost to creep amid heaps of broken mortar and rubbish
beneath their scaffolds, in order to reach the interior rooms. Here, at
the end of a narrow passage, was a little apartment, perhaps fifteen
feet square, with a low ceiling and a bare floor, in which Kean
habitually took his pleasure, in the society of fellow-actors and boon
companions, long ago. A narrow, cushioned bench against the walls, a few
small tables, a chair or two, a number of churchwarden pipes on the
mantlepiece, and portraits of Disraeli and Gladstone, constituted the
furniture. A panelled wainscot and dingy red paper covered the walls,
and a few cobwebs hung from the grimy ceiling. By this time the old room
has been made neat and comely; but then it bore the marks of hard usage
and long neglect, and it seemed all the more interesting for that
reason.
Kean's seat is at the right, as you enter, and just above it a mural
tablet designates the spot,--which is still further commemorated by a
death-mask of the actor, placed on a little shelf of dark wood and
covered with glass. No better portrait could be desired; certainly no
truer one exists. In life this must have been a glorious face. The eyes
are large and prominent, the brow is broad and fine, the mouth wide and
obviously sensitive, the chin delicate, and the nose long, well set, and
indicative of immense force of character. The whole expression of the
face is that of refinement and of great and desolate sadness. Kean, as
is known from the testimony of one who acted with him,¹ was always at
his best in passages of pathos.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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