Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries
History
Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries
Laos -- Description and travel; Missions -- Laos; Missions -- Thailand; Thailand -- Description and travel
As the newly-arrived missionary for Laos stands in Bangkok and looks
“up the river,” the five hundred miles that lie between him and Cheung
Mai mean more to him perhaps than any of the same number he has
traversed since leaving his native land. It means from sixty to ninety
days’ travel in a rocking boat, and when accomplished puts him in one
of the most isolated outposts of the Church.
The boats for the journey, with a Laos crew are sent down from Cheung
Mai, as they are constructed to meet the peculiarities of the upper
Menam, its changing channels, its shallows and its rapids. The hull is
of light draught, and in the larger boats is about thirty feet long
and widens to the breadth of six or seven feet across the deck. At
either end it rises from the water in a sharp, narrow curve, that of
the stern being broadened and finished with an ornamentation which
resembles a fish’s tail. This is the design, and poetical it may be,
but in appearance it is clumsy and unsymmetrical in the general
contour of the boat. The cabin at the stern, in dimensions about five
by seven feet, is used as a sitting- and sleeping-room. The middle
deck is appropriated to the storing away of goods, boxes, trunks,
etc., and the bow is occupied by the boatmen, where they sit when
rowing or walk when poling, and where they eat and sleep. The middle
deck is covered over with bamboo wickerwork. It forms an arch, and is
so low that one cannot stand up in it. The roof of the cabin is of the
same material, but of finer braid, is separate from that of the middle
deck, and about two feet higher, so that one can stand comfortably in
the centre of it. The bow has an adjustable cover, which the boatmen
slide on to the cover of the middle deck during the day and replace
over the bow at night. The three sides of the cabin toward the river
have the upper parts entirely open. Screens of bamboo matwork are
fastened on the outside by strings of ratan, which answer the purpose
of hinges. These “shutters” can be raised to any angle, and are
propped outward by slender bamboo sticks. Being tied to the screen,
they are always at hand.
The crew consists of a captain and from six to eight boatmen. It is
quite an imposing sight when the Laos king starts out with a fleet of
forty or fifty of these boats, each taking place in line according to
the rank of the passengers, the king’s boat at the head with the
Siamese flag aloft, and gongs sounding the departure.
Our missionary fleet seldom exceeds three boats, and is minus the
flags and gongs, but instead has the waving of hats and handkerchiefs
by the outward bound, which is answered by the watchers on the banks.
“Bon voyage!” and “God speed you!” mingle with the farewells of the
company on the receding boats until each is lost to the other’s sight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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