Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries
History
Siam and Laos, as Seen by Our American Missionaries
Laos -- Description and travel; Missions -- Laos; Missions -- Thailand; Thailand -- Description and travel
A few miles north of Rahang the river branches once more. We follow
the north-west fork, called the Maping. The other branch (Mawang)
leads to the province of Lakawn, where is one of our Laos churches.
Although the country in this vicinity is comparatively level, yet the
high banks and the views of distant mountain-ranges or hills diversify
the scenery, which has not the dull monotony of the lower Menam――a
pleasing change, and one that beguiles our time and attention as the
boats are slowly making their way toward the rapids; and seven or
eight days’ “poling” bring us to the entrance of the ravine at their
foot.
After weeks of voyaging on a broad river and through a flat country,
with a wide horizon always encircling us, how anomalous to be
confronted by this rocky pass, through which we must thread our way up
forty rapids to the equally level territory of Laos beyond it! As we
enter the gorge from the bright sunlight a sombre shade closes over
us, even “the shadow of a great rock in a _weary land_.” Wild and
grand beyond description are these cañons and falls of the Maping
River, and far exceeding any portrayal are the lofty, majestic
mountains through which the river cuts its way.
No scientific survey has ever been made of the incline of the river,
neither accurate measurement of the height of its mountains.
Missionaries have approximated the altitude of some of the cliffs that
border the river at from eight hundred to fifteen hundred feet. The
geology and flora of this region remain unclassified. In silent beauty
they await the coming of one who may some day unlock their secrets.
It occupies from one to two weeks in getting through the rapids. Some
are so difficult of ascent as to require many hours for its
accomplishment, while others can be gotten over in less than half an
hour. By means of ropes and pulleys the men, with the “Heave-O” cry
that is heard the world over, pull and push the boat upward through
the gushing waters to the top of the fall, where we glide on in
smoother ease――several miles, it may be――until a warning roar in the
distance announces the approach to another rapid.
The river is very winding in its course and variable in breadth――narrow
here, where perpendicular walls of granite rise sheer out of the water
to prodigious heights, shutting us in with heavy shadows and deep
solitude; wider there, where the rocks recede and stand apart, leaving
valleys between, where many a boulder, large and small, in “rank
confusion” lies, and where at the river’s edge are spaces of white
sandy beach. Here, where we halt for the night, a spacious ampitheatre
encloses us apart from all of earth. Encompassed by the “everlasting
hills” and under the silent stars, we sing our evening song of praise
and worship “Him who is from everlasting to everlasting.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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