Siam : The Land of the White Elephant as It Was and IsBacon, George B. (George Blagden)
History
Siam : The Land of the White Elephant as It Was and Is
Bacon, George B. (George Blagden)
Thailand -- Description and travel; Thailand -- History
"It would be difficult to imagine a more beautiful object than this
temple was, when seen from the opposite side of the river. The style of
architecture was similar to that of the other temples in Siam; the roof
rising in the centre, and thence running down in a series of gables,
terminating in curved points. The roof was covered entirely with
scarlet and gold, while the lower part of the building was blue, with
stars of gold. Below, the temple had four entrances leading directly to
the pyre; upon each side, as you entered, were placed magnificent
mirrors, which reflected the whole interior of the building, which was
decorated with blue and gold, in the same manner as the exterior. From
the roof depended immense chandeliers, which at night increased the
effect beyond description. Sixteen large columns, running from north to
south, supported the roof. The entire height of the building must have
been 120 feet, its length about fifty feet, and breadth forty feet. In
the centre was a raised platform, about seven feet high, which was the
place upon which the urn containing the body was to be placed. Upon each
side of this were stairs covered with scarlet and gold cloth.
"This building stood in the centre of a piece of ground of about two
acres extent, the whole of which ground was covered over with close
rattan-work, in order that visitors might not wet their feet, the ground
being very muddy.
"This ground was enclosed by a wall, along the inside of which myriads
of lamps were disposed, rendering the night as light as the day. The
whole of the grounds belonging to the adjoining temple contained nothing
but tents, under which Siamese plays were performed by dancing-girls
during the day. During the night, transparencies were in vogue. Along
the bank of the river, Chinese and Siamese plays (performed by men) were
in great force, and to judge by the frequent cheering of the populace,
no small talent was shown by the performers, which talent in Siam
consists entirely in obscenity and vulgarity.
"All approaches were blocked long before daylight each morning, by
hundreds--nay, thousands of boats of every description in Siam,
_sampans_, _mapet_, _mak'êng_, _ma guen_, etc., etc.; these were filled
with presents of white cloth, no other presents being accepted or
offered during a funeral. How many shiploads of fine shirting were
presented during those few days it is impossible to say. Some conception
of the number of boats may be had from the fact that, in front of my
floating house I counted seventy-two large boats, all of which had
brought cloth.
"The concourse of people night and day was quite as large as at any
large fair in England; and the whole scene, with the drums and shows,
the illuminations and the fireworks, strongly reminded me of Greenwich
Fair at night. The varieties in national costume were considerable, from
the long flowing dresses of the Mussulman to the scanty _pan-hung_ of
the Siamese.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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