Siam : The Land of the White Elephant as It Was and IsBacon, George B. (George Blagden)
History
Siam : The Land of the White Elephant as It Was and Is
Bacon, George B. (George Blagden)
Thailand -- Description and travel; Thailand -- History
It might almost have been "the good Haroun Alraschid" and "the great
pavilion of the caliphat in inmost Bagdad," that we had come to, it was
so imposing a scene, and so characteristically Oriental. What I had read
of in the "Arabian Nights," and hardly thought was possible except in
such romantic stories, seemed to be realized. Here was a king worth
seeing, a real king, with a real crown on, and with real pomp of royalty
about him. I think that every American who goes abroad has a more or
less distinct sense of being defrauded of his just rights when, in Paris
or Berlin, for example, he goes out to see the king or emperor, and is
shown a plainly-dressed man driving quietly and almost undistinguished
among the throng of carriages. We feel that this is not at all what we
came for, nor what we had been led to expect when, as schoolboys, we
read about imperial magnificence and regal splendor, and the opulence of
the "crowned heads." The crowned head might have passed before our very
eyes, and we would not have known it if we had not been told. Not so in
Bangkok. This was "a goodly king" indeed. And all the circumstances of
time and place seemed to be so managed as to intensify the singular
charm and beauty of the scene.
We stood in a large court, paved with broad, smooth slabs of marble, and
open to the sky, which was beginning to be rosy with the sunset. All
about us were magnificent palace buildings, with shining white walls,
and with roofs of gleaming green and gold. Broad avenues, with the same
marble pavement, led in various directions to the temples and the
audience halls. Here and there the dazzling whiteness of the buildings
and the pavement was relieved by a little dark tropical foliage; and, as
the sunset grew more ruddy every instant,
"A sudden splendor from behind
Flushed all the leaves with rich gold green,"
and tinged the whole bright court with just the necessary warmth of
color. There was the most perfect stillness, broken only by the sound of
our footsteps on the marble, and, except ourselves, not a creature was
moving. Here and there, singly or in groups, about the spacious court,
prostrate, with faces on the stone, in motionless and obsequious
reverence, as if they were in the presence of a god and not of a man,
grovelled the subjects of the mighty sovereign into whose presence we
were approaching. It was hard for the stoutest democrat to resist a
momentary feeling of sympathy with such universal awe; and to remember
that, after all, as Hamlet says, a "king is a thing ... of nothing." So
contagious is the obsequiousness of a royal court and so admirably
effective was the arrangement of the whole scene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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