Siam : The Land of the White Elephant as It Was and IsBacon, George B. (George Blagden)
History
Siam : The Land of the White Elephant as It Was and Is
Bacon, George B. (George Blagden)
Thailand -- Description and travel; Thailand -- History
"I endeavored fruitlessly to obtain oxen or elephants to carry our
baggage with a view of exploring the country, but all beasts of burden
were in use for the rice-harvest. I therefore left my boat and its
contents in charge of the Laotian family, and we set off, like pilgrims,
on foot for Patawi, on a fine morning with a somewhat cloudy sky, which
recalled to me the pleasant autumn days of my own country. My only
companions were Küe and my young Laotian guide. We followed for three
hours, through forests infested with wild beasts, the road to Korat, and
at last reached Patawi. As at Phrabat, there is a bell, both at the foot
of the mount and at the entrance of a long and wide avenue leading to
the pagoda, which the pilgrims ring on arriving, to inform the good
genii of their presence and bespeak a favorable hearing of their
prayers. The mount is isolated, and about four hundred and fifty feet in
height; its formation is similar to that of Phrabat, but although its
appearance is equally grand it presents distinct points of variation.
Here are not to be seen those masses of rock, piled one upon another, as
if hurled by the giants in a combat like that fabled of old. Patawi
seems to be composed of one enormous rock, which rises almost
perpendicularly like a wall, excepting the centre portion, which toward
the south hangs over like a roof, projecting eighteen or twenty feet. At
the first glance might be recognized the action of water upon a soil
originally clay.
"There are many footprints similar to those of Phrabat, and in several
places are to be seen entire trunks of trees in a state of petrifaction
lying close to growing individuals of the same species. They have all
the appearance of having been just felled, and it is only on testing
their hardness with a hammer that one feels sure of not being mistaken.
An ascent of several large stone steps leads, on the left hand, to the
pagoda, and on the right to the residence of the talapoins, or priests,
who are three in number, a superior and two assistants, appointed to
watch and pay reverence to the precious 'rays' of Somanakodom. Were the
authors who have written about Buddhism ignorant of the signification of
the word 'ray' employed by the Buddhists? Now, in the Siamese language
the same word which means 'ray' signifies also shadow, and it is through
respect for their deity that the first meaning is applied.
"The priests were much surprised to see a 'farang' (foreigner) in their
pagoda, but some trifling gifts soon established me in their good
graces. The superior was particularly charmed with a magnet which I gave
him, and amused himself with it for a long time, uttering cries of
delighted admiration as he saw it attract and pick up all the little
pieces of metal which he placed near it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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