Siberia (Russia); Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
We rode down through Khabarovsk, and out on a road which would take us
to the bridge. A guide at headquarters said there was a passage over
the bridge for horses and foot-passengers, but he did not go with us.
When we came to the bridge, we found that the “passage for horses”
consisted of nothing more than loose planks laid lengthwise between the
rails. And outside the rails, between the steel girders, were great
openings big enough to let a horse go through, in case he shied from
between the rails. And if we met a train, we would have to turn our
horses and come back.
This bridge over the Amur is nearly a mile long, and consists of
twenty-two spans supported by great stone piers built up from the river
bed. It may be less than half a mile from the surface of the river,
but it appeared to be that far above the water as I looked it over in
contemplation of riding a horse across it. I had crossed it twice by
train, but late at night, when I had not appreciated its grandeur, so
to speak.
There is a story that the Bolshevists planned to blow it out, but that
one Bolshevist leader had objected, and threatened to shoot his comrade
with the explosives, if the bridge were destroyed, saying it belonged
to Russia, and so much wealth could not be destroyed with his assent.
That Bolshevist must have been something of a patriot, for he saved the
bridge.
The Japanese guards examined my pass. I consulted with W----. The
horses seemed steady enough, and I decided to attempt the crossing.
So starting off at a slow trot, I led the way. My horse shuddered and
snorted at first, but I did not allow him to stop and think it over.
By the time we had crossed the first span, the others were trailing
behind. And everything went well, till I came to planks which were
underlaid with sheets of corrugated iron. These made a tremendous
racket under the impact of the blows of the horse’s feet on the loose
planks, and he began to prance and refused to go on. I dismounted,
and without looking back at him, led him across the bad stretch. He
followed meekly, and once we were clear of the sheets, I mounted again,
and went on at the slow trot. So we went over and back again without
mishap, and found it not to be so foolhardy a crossing as it had
appeared to be at first glance.
My orderly was now out of hospital, and I arranged to leave for
Vladivostok. The train would leave at one o’clock in the afternoon. At
ten, I sent the orderly-interpreter to the station, to get two tickets
and book accommodations for us. At eleven we were at the station, in
order to assure ourselves of a seat, for the train came in a couple
of hours before it departed, and seats belong to those who get them,
regardless of seat-tickets or anything else, under that system of
“equality” which the Siberian has acquired.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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