[Illustration: SYRACUSE. FORT EURYELUS. _Page 353._]
[Illustration: SYRACUSE. EXAMPLE OF SICILIAN GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE. _Page
352._]
[Illustration: GIRGENTI. A WINE CART.]
[Illustration: GIRGENTI. A SICILIAN CART.]
of Ortygia, the island where the original Greek settlement was planted.
The five prosperous towns that once surrounded the central city have
disappeared; the magnificent harbor alone remains unchanged; it could
still hold a fleet of battleships.
“Where can we get the best view of Greater Syracuse?” Patsy wondered;
“it must have been very like Greater New York. The central city built on
an island in a magnificent harbor surrounded by five cities and
connected by a bridge to the mainland. You can see the remaining ruins
of the five cities on this map--see here they are, they correspond quite
well to Brooklyn, Hoboken, Jersey City, Staten Island and the Bronx!”
We had fixed Sunday afternoon, our last day, to deliver a letter of
introduction to a lady of Syracuse; our time was so short we could not
risk being tempted with hospitalities! When the hour for the visit
arrived Patsy “begged off!”
“That old Greek fort of Euryelus,” he began, “I didn’t half see it the
other day--the English officer I met in the catacombs says that
Archimedes invented the catapult for its defence. He says it’s still so
solid it could be repaired to stand a siege--an old-fashioned one of
course--like the siege of Troy!”
“_You_ more interested in an old ruin than a new acquaintance?” I cried.
No use, for once Patsy deserted me.
On the way to deliver the letter I stopped at the cathedral, formerly a
Pagan temple. The baroque façade is disappointing. Where are the remains
of the temple, of the costly treasures Verres carried off to Rome, and
got soundly scolded by Cicero for, in consequence? To get back to that
time you must go over step by step what has happened since then. In the
seventh century the temple was turned into a Christian church by Bishop
Zosimus, in the eighth it became a Mohammedan mosque; temple, mosque,
cathedral, it has served its purpose of worship well! When my guide, a
bright-eyed boy, rattled off his lesson, the place immediately grew
interesting. I found the temple’s superb Doric columns--they are
whitewashed now and hard to discover--imbedded in the cathedral walls;
at the sight of them the church vanishes, a splendid temple stands in
its place. Near this deep-fluted column, may have knelt Simaetha, the
deserted girl, imploring help of Artemis to win back false
Delphis--hark, her old cry echoes through the ages:
“Three times do I pour libation, and thrice, my Lady Moon, I speak this:
Be it with a friend he lingers, be it with a leman, may he clean forget
them, as Theseus of old forgot the fair-tressed Ariadne!”
“There will be a baptism,” said the boy, “if the lady cares to see the
font--“
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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