Breakfast over, I was hurried to see the Temple of Zeus and Patsy’s new
friend. He welcomed us with effusion and lamented the scarcity of
tourists. Patsy asked him to what nationality the larger part of his
traveling public belonged.
“German,” he said. “I always know them because they walk.”
“They are economical?”
“In part for that reason, also because they see more on foot than
driving.”
“Americans all come in cabs?”
“It is true, but they are mostly ladies. Touching those Germans, before
1870 they traveled very little; now they come in crowds. The Kaiser sets
the fashion; he comes every spring to Syracuse, often to Girgenti. What
a lot of German architects and men of science were here this time last
year! They study, they measure, they make drawings, they return, they
measure again--oh, intelligent! One cannot deny it, if not so
sympathetic as others--Americani for example.”
The Temple of Zeus is a vast ruin; hardly one stone remains standing on
another. The mighty pillars lie where they sank; their bases are still
in place, the drums that composed them have fallen asunder; you can
trace the relation of part to part as they lie forlorn and disjointed
on the earth. A sandstone giant, that once upheld the roof, lies on the
ground; he reminds us of the Colossus at Thebes, even more of the carved
wood colossi that held up the great organ of the old Boston Music Hall.
The Temple of Heracles, near the Temple of Zeus, is no better preserved;
these vast ruins arouse a feeling of sadness and confusion. To what end
were they erected, with such incredible labor, if they were to be so
utterly destroyed? It was futile, discouraging, hopeless!
“There, there!” said Patsy, “that’s the reason I brought you here first.
Now come and see the great glory!”
“Notice one thing more,” said the _custode_, pointing to a bit of
cornice that lay protected from the weather by a large fragment. “You
see this white coating like fine stucco? The six temples of Girgenti
were all built of sandstone, yet they must look like marble. Oh! the
ancients knew some things we have forgotten! White marble was brought
from Greece, ground to a powder, mixed with mastic and spread over the
sandstone; the temples of Girgenti shone white as the Parthenon
itself.”
“I should like to think so,” sighed Patsy; “now they tell us the marble
surface was painted over with blue, red and green decorations.”
“It was a protection as well,” said the _custode_. “See, the stone is
friable; if it had not been for so many centuries covered with this
stucco, it would have been worn away by the sirocco.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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