Near Glenwood is an interesting little lake that I visited. Its water is exquisitely clear and very slightly warm. Though less than a foot deep in most places (it has one pool twelve feet in depth), it never freezes, in spite of the intense cold at this altitude. It is stocked with trout that do not grow to any size, but which do not on the other hand seem to diminish in numbers, although the consumption is considerable. The botany in the neighbourhood of the lake is very interesting, the larkspur, lupin, mimulus, violet, heart's-ease, ox-eye, and several other familiar plants of English gardens, growing wild, while a strongly tropical flavour is given to the vegetation by the superb footstools of cactus--imagine sixty-one brilliant scarlet blossoms on a cushion only fifteen inches across!--by the presence of a gorgeous oriole (the body a pure yellow freaked with black on the wings, and the head and neck a rich orange), and by a large butterfly of a clear flame-colour with the upper wings sharply hooked at the tips. Flower, bird, and insect were all in keeping with the Brazils or the Malayan Archipelago. On a rock, close by the grist-mill, is the only specimen of the much-talked-of Indian "hieroglyphics" that I have seen. They may of course be hieroglyphics, but to me they look like the first attempts of some untutored savage youth to delineate in straight lines the human form divine. Or they may be only his attempts to delineate a cockroach. CHAPTER XIV. FROM GLENWOOD TO MONROE. From Glenwood to Salina--Deceptiveness of appearances--An apostate Mormon's friendly testimony---Reminiscences of the Prophet Joseph Smith--Rabbit-hunting in a waggon--Lost in the sagebrush--A day at Monroe--Girls riding pillion--The Sunday drum--Waiting for the right man: "And what if he is married?"--The truth about apostasy: not always voluntary.